City Tavern

I recently traveled back in time to 18th-century America, when my companion and I dined in a room that was once host to the likes of George Washington, John Adams and Paul Revere. We walked on the same floor as our forefathers when they celebrated the Continental Congress`s first Fourth of July celebration in 1777. Our journey wasn`t a far one, being just over the bridge in Philadelphia, where the traditions, customs and food preparation of early America live on at the City Tavern.

The restaurant, located at 138 South Second St., is three stories high and was built to resemble an authentic London tavern.

The restaurant has 10 newly refurbished dining rooms all designed to capture the atmosphere and ambiance of an earlier time. City Tavern can accommodate up to 280 people inside; in warm weather, the garden area can seat up to 800 guests.

It is said that John Adams once called the City Tavern "the most genteel tavern in America," so I was anxious to experience such generous hospitality for myself.

Upon arrival, my guest and I were greeted by a host (dressed in colonial garb, of course) who led us upstairs to the Cincinnati Room. It was so named for the Society of the Cincinnati, an organization comprised of direct descendents of the Revolutionary officers who founded the original Pennsylvania chapter at the City Tavern in 1783.

We were seated at a wooden table laid with a light blue tablecloth. Pewter goblets and salt and pepper shakers, as well as fine china plates with the restaurant`s inscription com- pleted the table. Old sea charts and paintings of colonial figures adorned the walls. Our waitress, Alice - who was also dressed in colonial finery - lit the table`s candle, which provided our only source of light. She carefully explained the night`s specials, which included appetizers and entrees such as ham and cabbage soup; chicken sausage with wild mushroom sauce; and braised lamb, beef and pork stew served over wild rice. Leaving us to soak up the colonial atmosphere, we quickly set about our most important task-deciding what to eat.

As we pondered our options, Alice brought us a basket of fresh bread that included Sally Lunn bread, Anadama loaves and sweet potato biscuits (said to be Thomas Jefferson`s favorite). We tried a small sampling of each type, and each proved to be a light and moist treat.

I chose to begin my meal with the Stuffed Shrimp, which consists of jumbo shrimp baked with crabmeat and topped with a sherry-cream sauce ($7.95). I savored every bite of this refined dish. My guest chose Giant Cornmeal Fried Oysters ($6.95). I couldn`t pass up the succulent smell and had to try one for myself. This was a mistake, however, because it was quite hard to resist stealing the others from my unsuspecting guest.

Our next course consisted of West Indies Pepperpot Soup ($4.50) and Romaine and Roquefort Salad ($6.95). The salad was large enough to be a meal in itself. The light and tangy dijon mustard vinaigrette dressing topped artistically presented salad greens, toma- toes and Roquefort cheese. It was indeed a pure delight.

Although the soup, which consisted of a thick and hearty broth, beef and vegetables, was a little spicy, it was very tasty and quite filling. For our entrees, I chose Medallions of Beef Tenderloin ($22.95), a tenderloin of beef served with green peppercorn and sherry cream sauce. This was accompanied by sauteed herbed barley over a bed of greens and fried sweet potatoes.

My guest chose Medallions of Venison ($23.95), which was sauteed with leeks, served with a bourbon-mushroom sauce infused with rosemary and accompanied by red potatoes and spinach. Both entrees were large portions of some of the best cuisine we`ve ever had the pleasure of tasting. Desserts are made fresh on the premises by the tavern`s own pastry chef. Selections include chocolate pecan pie, sweet potato pie, pumpkin pie and apple or cranberry cobbler with French vanilla ice cream.

Although we chose to pass up these temptations, guests at a nearby table said the sweet potato pie was out of this world.

The City Tavern has a full-service bar, and customers can buy wine by the glass or bottle. They can also opt to try one of the colonial ales the restaurant has on tap. Hot apple cider ant a selection of juices are also available during the fall season.

If you are looking to experience the customs and foods of the 18th century, there is no better place than the City Tavern. Executive chef Peter Chan uses authentic recipes to expertly craft world-class cuisine, and the polished wait staff goes out of its way to make your dining experience memorable. Combine this with an elegant atmosphere in a historical setting, and you have more than an excellent meal - you have a remarkable journey back in time - one that you will want to relive over and over again.

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Author: Colleen Flanagan