Di Santillo`s

Gibbstown Shopping Center Exit 17 of Rt. 295 South Gibbstown 423-4338 by James Reuter

When you`re hungry, you grab a Snickers. When you`re really hungry you get a Whopper. And when you`re really, really hungry, you eat Italian. My wife Patti and I were really, really, really hungry, so we ventured to Di Santillo`s in the Gibbstown Shopping Center (just off Exit 17 of I-295 in Gibbstown). Patti`s Italian heritage goes way back (to South Philly), so she knows true Italian food. No one was going to sneak any Ragu by her. She needn`t have worried.

The restaurant`s walls are painted in a soft salmon color with green trim; small picture mirrors; and, interestingly, black light sconces. Etched glass extends across one side of the restaurant, separating it from the adjacent pizza shop (same ownership) and completely silencing any noises.

Tables are a mottled hue of salmons, greys, and greens, matching the tiled floor. The tables are decorated with bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Green plants abound.

Christina, one of the great waitresses of the western world, met us with a bright smile and a traditional Italian greeting. Tradition is very important at Di Santillo`s. Christina informed us that the owner`s mother and other relatives constantly check in to make sure that "we`re doing things right." They should have just asked Patti and me.

We began our meal with a shared appetizer of Insalata Di Santillo ($6.95). This consisted of a platter filled with roasted eggplant, almost-sweet roast peppers, tender artichoke hearts, fresh homemade mozzarella cheese (just pop `em in the mouth and let `em melt!), marinated mushrooms, crumbly triangles of provolone, and tangy prosciutto and salami. Crunchy homemade bread was wonderful dipped in the platter`s juices.

We followed with Maryland crab soup (served with all en-trees), a sharp broth of potatoes, peas, carrots, tomatoes and crab meat. I don`t eat seafood (being an unshellfish kind of guy), and I still enjoyed it. Patti said it was provisimo! Simple salads (also served with every entree) of greens, tomatoes, marinated olives, cucumbers and onions came with a French dressing for me and a light vinaigrette for Patti.

So far, we had eaten more than we normally eat in a day. But was Christina finished with us? Noooo! Huge entrees were brought out. Having an annoying habit of ordering food I can`t pronounce, I partook of Orecchiette Alla Barese con Braciola ($12.95). This heaven-sent dish consisted of ear-shaped pasta (hey, that`s what the menu said) with diced tomatoes and basil accompanying braciola (ultra-thin-sliced veal coated in garlic, parsley and freshly grated parmigiano cheese). The fork-tender veal picked up all of the flavors of the tomatoes and basil in which it was swimming.

Patti, who says she never gets enough of it at home (she means seafood), had Salmone al Castaccio (a special that night at $20.95). Inside a steaming aluminum wrapper were tender shrimp and scallops and a slice of salmon. These were accompanied by string beans and baby carrots in a butter sauce. She pronounced it "excellente!"

By this time, we were nearly bursting, but Christina in-formed me that the owner`s mother makes the world`s best tiramisu ($4.25). Not wishing to hurt an Italian mom`s feelings, I felt obliged to try it. This delicacy of Italian custard over lady fingers soaked in espresso and accompanied by real whipped cream was both light and substantial (i.e., it was huge). Patti enjoyed profiterol ($4.25), which sounds like pain reliever, but is actually vanilla and chocolate ice cream (almost fudgy in texture) over a crisp Italian cook-ie. Completely out of Italian adjectives, she said it was great. Fresh-brewed decaf ($1.25) completed the meal.

Di Santillo`s can seat about 70 in its main dining room. It also has a banquet room (with a small dance floor) that can seat up to 60. Dinners range from traditional lasagna to bistecca, a porterhouse steak with portobello mushrooms in a demi-glaze sauce. Beer and wine are served. And if you`re bringing the kids, they can have pizza. Appetizers $5.50 - $8.25 Dinners $9.95 - $20.95

Reservations are accepted (recommended on weekends) Liquor License: Yes Handicapped Accessible Smoking/Nonsmoking Chef: Giuseppe Furio Owner: Giuseppe Castelforte

Hours: Monday - Thursday:11:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. Friday and Saturday:11:00 a.m. - 11:00 p.m. Sunday:5:00 p.m. - 10:00 p.m. In operation since July 1997 Casual Dress

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Author: James Reuter