Downey`s

With a name like Flanagan, I can assure you that I`m no stranger to home-cooked, traditional Irish fare. And with one visit to Downey`s Restaurant, located on the corner of South and Front Streets in Philadelphia, I can also tell you it doesn`t get any better than this (sorry Mom!). Downey`s, often frequented by sports stars and visiting celebrities, offers casual elegance in an Irish pub atmosphere.

After traipsing past the barrage of specialty shops and boutiques on South Street, we found this bit of old Ireland sitting on the edge of Philly`s historic waterfront. The restaurant, which opened on St. Patrick`s Day 1976, has become known in Philadelphia for its outstanding food, fine drinks and good times. The rich mahogany wood and stained glass imported from Ireland, as well as the antiques and Irish memorabilia that line the walls, work together to create a truly Hibernian ambiance. Live music, such as Bob Bush`s Variety Show on Wednesday and Saturday nights and at Sunday brunch, also adds to the atmosphere.

The rich aroma of Downey`s family recipes and the lively conversation from other patrons welcomed us as we entered the restaurant, and we immediately felt at home. We were seated in the cafe, where large windows allowed us to view South Street and the Delaware River. Warm bread and butter were brought to our table by Cheryl, our wait server. She explained that after 15 years, she considered herself quite a veteran of Downey`s and helped us to make our night`s selections.

For an appetizer, my guest chose four chilled jumbo shrimp served with cocktail sauce and lemon ($2.95 each). The claim that they are the largest shrimp in the city was no exaggeration. I chose the soup and salad combo ($7.95). The Irish Potato Soup, thick and traditional and served with large pieces of potato, was out of this world. Although I had a scaled-down version of Downey`s Caesar salad, I still couldn`t manage to finish it. (Not for lack of desire, however, because the dressing - prepared fresh daily on the premises - was probably the best I`ve ever tasted.)

At the urging of Cheryl, my guest chose as his entree the Crab Cakes (market price), which were accompanied by french fries and fresh broccoli. We were told that fresh lump crabmeat was included in the recipe given to Downey`s from the Waterfront Hotel in Baltimore. I ordered the Dublin Bay Pasta ($17.95). Described as a Downey`s favorite, the dish consisted of fresh lump crabmeat and shrimp nestled in a bed of linguini and topped with a creamy sherry wine lobster sauce. It was so large that no human could possibly finish it at one sitting. Because our entrees were too good (and too big!) to keep to ourselves, we shared them.

Downey`s offers a variety of rich desserts (none of which Richard Simmons would approve) and Irish coffees to com- plete each meal. We were persuaded by Cheryl (although it didn` t take much arm-twisting, I must admit) to try Downey`s famous Irish Whiskey Cake. A popular item at department stores and on the Home Shopping Network, the dessert far surpassed our expectations. Since our diets had completely flown out the window by this point, we decided to indulge in Irish Coffee. To say it was the perfect ending to a perfect meal would be an understatement.

Each night, Executive Chef George Crumbley creates a selection of seafood, steaks, poultry and pastas as well as traditional favorites like Corned Beef and Cabbage ($13.95) and Shepherd`s Pie ($11.95). Daily specials are also offered. On the night of our visit, Loin of Veal stuffed with provolone, roasted red peppers, spinach and prosciuto with a marsala demi glaze ($16.95); Trout Almondine ($15.95); and Grilled Ribeye Steak served with Cajun onions ($17.95) were featured.

The restaurant, which is open 11:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 10:30 a.m. to 2 a.m. on Sunday, also has a snack menu that includes such items as chicken wings, potato skins, nachos, mussels, hamburgers and sandwiches. Along with the main dining area (which accommodates 60) and the cafe (with seating for 40), Downey`s has an open top deck with a view of the Delaware River that is available for banquets. The staff will customize private dinners of 15 or receptions for up to 150.

If you`re looking for quality homemade food and desserts you could die for served in a comfortable atmosphere by an attentive staff, bring your appetite to Downey`s - just leave your calorie counter at home.

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Author: Colleen Flanagan