The Moshulu

Recently, I had an elegant dining experience with a friend at the historic Moshulu, a sailing ship-cum- restaurant, which is now docked at Pier 34 on Columbus Boulevard in Philadelphia. The Moshulu, originally launched under the name Kurt, was built for G.J.H. Siemers and Co. of Hamburg, Germany, in 1904. From 1904 until 1914, the ship carried various goods, such as coal and nitrate, in its early voyages to Mexico and other parts of Europe.

During World War I, the ship was confiscated from Germany by the U.S., after which it made several voyages across the Pacific. The Kurt was subsequently renamed Dreadnaught, after a famous clipper ship; however, it never sailed under this name.

In 1917, President Woodrow Wilson`s wife renamed the ship Moshulu, a Seneca Indian term that means "fear not." The U.S. government operated the ship until 1921, when it was then purchased by a private owner.

The ship had several owners and performed various duties from 1921 until 1975, when it became a floating restaurant at Penn`s Landing. A tragic fire damaged and closed the Moshulu in 1989. On July 24, 1996, after an extensive restoration project, the Moshulu was reopened under the ownership of HMS Ven- tures, Inc., which is headed by Michael J. Asbell and Eli Karetny. The Moshulu has been restored in the style of a turn-of-the-century luxury liner, and it remains one of the largest and oldest fourmasted sailing ships afloat.

As my companion and I walked through the doors of the vessel, we were struck by the beauty of its decor. The inside, which is Victorian in style, is finished in gorgeous cherry wood. Bay windows provide a delightful, panoramic view of the Delaware River. The Moshulu`s romantic setting is enhanced by softly playing music, dim lighting and candles at every table.

As we checked in, we were greeted by a pleasant hostess as well as manager Joe Carpinella. Before we were led into the dining area, the hostess pointed out to us a large-screen TV that continually plays the history of the Moshulu. Once seated, we were immediately greeted by our server, Phyllis. She informed us that split pea was the soup of the day and that she would be happy to help us select our meal. The menu offered a wide variety of dishes from all parts of the globe. Asian, French, Italian and Spanish cultures were all represented and prepared with an American influence.

We began our meal with two appetizers that were recommended by Phyllis. I had the fresh lobster ravioli with grilled fennel and oven-dried tomato, which was presented in a creamy yet light ginger shellfish broth ($10.00). My companion had the Pan-seared Hawaiian Ahi Tuna Cake with a red pepper aioli and snow pea shoots garnished with lightly baked and thinly sliced onion rings ($7.00). Both appetizers were works of art, and they tasted just as good as they looked.

Immediately after we finished, our table was cleared and the second course was served. I had the she-crab and corn bisque soup ($6.00), which was creamy but not too heavy and included tender lumps of crab meat surrounded by corn. It was delicious! My companion had the Caesar salad with hearts of romaine lettuce and olive tapenade (S6.00), which he heartily enjoyed.

Once again, our plates were cleared and the table was neatly prepared for the main courses. The food looked almost too good to eat, but our admiration lasted but a few seconds as we dug into the mouth- watering dishes in front of us.- I savored every bite of my crispy, roasted half- duckling ($23.00). The duckling was accompanied by braised bok choy and Japanese rice, and immersed in plum cider reduction. My companion feasted on the South American pasilla pepper barbecue jumbo shrimp ($23.00) that, without him having to say a word, I knew he loved.

we`d finished the main course, we set our sights on the final objective - dessert. Although we couldn`t imagine eating anything else, Phyllis showed us the outrageously decadent dessert menu. How could we resist? She noted that several of the desserts are made on the premises by the executive and sous chefs Thomas Harkins and Ronell Del Mundo, respectively.

These are the Godiva white chocolate creme brulee ($4.95) and the strawberry shortcake ($5.50), in which we both indulged. This scrumptious treat consisted of a homemade buttermilk biscuit split in half with light creme in the center and overflowing with fresh strawberries.

The Moshulu is open for lunch Monday through Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Prices for lunch entrees range from $10.00 to $14.00. Sunday brunch is from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. Dinner is served everyday from 5:30 p.m. to 10:00, and entrees range from $23.00 to $32.00. Soups are changed daily and the menu seasonally.

The Moshulu can accommodate up to 220 people. It includes one main dining area and a lounge, both of which are located on the main level. It`s upper deck seats many more guests when the weather permits. Live music can be enjoyed Wednesday through saturday in the Winter Garden Lounge.

735 S Columbus BlvdPhiladelphia(215) 923-2500

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Author: Andrea Brittner