BEEFING UP A DINNER MENU

My mother always served steak with salad so that both -- cold salad and hot steak -- were eaten together like the article between the two words wasn`t really there.

She made her salad with bitter greens and a vinegary dressing and spooned it right on top of the steak, hot off the grill, out of the pan or from the broiler. Steak and salad takes on a different meaning when served this way.

Like so many of the things I learned in my mother`s kitchen, her way of serving steak was more about instinct and tradition than about being trendy. She cooked the way her mother cooked and we ate, no questions asked.

Mom didn`t have access to arugula, but her nod to a bitter salad green was chicory, which is one member of the endive family that has a frizzy green leaf. We always called it curly endive. (Frisee is similar, but it is all pale yellow or white leaves and is more expensive.) The dark green outer leaves of the endive were cooked and served hot with olive oil and vinegar. The pale green inside leaves, more tender to the bite, were reserved for the salad bowl.

Mom`s formula for salad dressing was a tangy mixture of equal parts olive oil to red wine vinegar, as opposed to the formula of three parts olive oil to one part vinegar that I usually prefer. But steak and salad is an exception.

In the following recipe I have adjusted Mom`s dressing formula to 1/4 cup vinegar to 1/3 cup olive oil. Make sure to salt the dressing because I have learned that salt actually dulls the bitter receptors on the buds making the vinegar seem a little less acidic. The vinegary dressing stands up exceptionally well to the bitterness in the greens and the richness of the meat juices.

Serve with potatoes that have been cut into long wedges and tossed with a little of the salad dressing before grilling. Start the potatoes about 5 minutes before the steak, because they will take at least 5 minutes more to cook.

When eating, use bites of steak and grilled potato to sop up the mixture of pan juices and vinegary salad dressing on the bottom of your plate. The well-balanced flavors will explode in your mouth.

For dessert, clear your palate by serving a big bowl of icy cold watermelon, cut into chunks and tossed with fresh lime juice. Watermelon is my favorite way to end a summer meal.

MENU

Mom`s Steak and Salad

Grilled Russet Potatoes

Icy Cold Watermelon With Fresh Lime Juice

PREPARATION

Prepare the watermelon and chill. Prepare all ingredients for the main course, but place the potatoes on the grill or under the broiler first. Make the salad. During the last 10 minutes of potato cooking time, place the steaks on the grill (or under the broiler).

SHOPPING

2 bunches arugula, 1 bunch chicory (curly endive) or 1 bag (about 12 ounces) prepared bitter salad greens (sometimes called Italian mix)

1 red onion

4 boneless beef steaks, each 6 to 8 ounces

1 large wedge watermelon

1 lime

PANTRY

Olive oil

Red wine vinegar

Garlic

Dried oregano

3 large russet potatoes

MOM`S STEAK AND SALAD

SALAD:

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1 garlic clove, bruised with side of knife

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 cups (about 12 ounces) arugula, chicory or salad mix of bitter greens

1/2 medium red onion, cut into thin half circles

STEAK:

4 boneless beef steaks, each 6 to 8 ounces

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

To prepare Salad, combine olive oil, vinegar, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper to taste in large bowl. Whisk to blend. Measure out 2 tablespoons and use to season potatoes in recipe below.

Rinse and dry salad greens. Set aside until ready to serve.

To prepare Steak, salt and pepper steaks on both sides. Place on heated grill (or under hot broiler) and cook 8 to 10 minutes for medium rare, turning once.

To serve, place steak in center of each dinner plate. Add salad and onion to bowl with dressing. Toss to coat. With tongs, place salad on top of each steak, dividing evenly. Discard garlic. Drizzle any dressing in bottom of bowl over steak. Add grilled potatoes and serve at once. Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 8 to 10 minutes

GRILLED RUSSET POTATOES

3 large russet potatoes, rinsed well, cut lengthwise into quarters

2 tablespoons dressing reserved from recipe above

In large bowl, toss potatoes with dressing.

Place on grill (or under broiler) and cook, turning, until tender and browned, 12 to 15 minutes, depending on size. During last 8 to 10 minutes of cooking time, grill steaks. Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes

ICY COLD WATERMELON WITH FRESH LIME JUICE

1 large wedge watermelon

Juice of 1 lime

Prepare melon by cutting 1-inch slices from wedge. Cut rind from each slice. Cut slices into 1-inch chunks.

Combine in large serving bowl with lime juice. Cover and refrigerate until serving time. Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

(Marie Simmons is the author of the newly published ``The Good Egg,`` Houghton Mifflin, winner of a James Beard Award and Julia Child award.)

(c) 2000, Marie Simmons. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Marie Simmons