FAST & FRESH: A CHICKEN SWITCH

Despite my effort to cook chicken breasts carefully, sometimes they turn out cottony and tasteless. Finally, I decided to switch to the thigh. It was a good decision.

Because the thigh meat is more muscular than the breast, it is juicier, has a slightly chewier texture and a lot more flavor. Now I am a chicken-thigh convert. No more bland, dry chicken breasts for me.

I especially like the convenience of the boned and skinned thighs. They can be left whole, marinated and grilled or cut into small pieces and simmered in stew or soup. In the following recipe I saute them in olive oil and then braise them in broth.

There is more flavor in the overall dish if I sprinkle salt and pepper right on the chicken before coating with the flour. Then the thighs are sauteed until lightly browned, splashed with a little white wine and simmered gently in the broth until tender. The little bit of flour thickens the broth ever so slightly.

Zucchini, lemon and mint are a favorite flavor combination that goes particularly well with this braised chicken dish. Rather than cook the vegetable separately, I stir it into the braised dish for just a few minutes at the end of the cooking time. The cherry tomatoes, although not essential, add nice color and flavor.

Serve a comforting bowl of creamy Parmesan Orzo with the chicken. Orzo, a small pasta shape that looks like rice, can be found in the pasta section of many markets. If you can`t find it, substitute another small pasta shape (acini de pepe, tubettini or ditalini), or rice.

For dessert, serve thick slices of peeled oranges splashed with a little wine, cinnamon and sugar. If you would rather not add the wine, substitute orange juice.

MENU

Chicken Thigh Saute With Zucchini, Lemon and Mint

Parmesan Orzo

Oranges With White Wine and Cinnamon

PREPARATION: Prepare the oranges. Brown the chicken. Cook the orzo. Finish the chicken.

SHOPPING

8 boneless and skinless chicken thighs (about 2 pounds)

1 1/4 cups dry white wine (optional; for dessert can substitute juice from 2 oranges)

1 pound zucchini

1 basket small whole cherry tomatoes

Fresh mint (or use basil, if preferred)

Fresh parsley

3 or 4 large oranges, preferably seedless

PANTRY

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

Flour

Olive oil

1 medium onion

1 lemon

1 1/2 cups orzo or other tiny pasta shape

Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Sugar

Ground cinnamon

CHICKEN THIGH SAUTE WITH ZUCCHINI, LEMON AND MINT

8 boneless and skinless chicken thighs, rinsed, trimmed and dried

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper

1 cup (approximately) flour

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, cut into thin wedges

1/4 cup dry white wine (optional)

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth

1 pound zucchini, trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch chunks

1/2 basket (about 1 cup) small whole cherry tomatoes, rinsed, trimmed, pierced with tip of knife

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons minced fresh mint (or use basil, if preferred)

Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Spread flour on sheet of wax paper and dredge chicken. Shake off excess.

Heat large deep skillet or saute pan over medium heat. Add olive oil and heat until hot enough to sizzle chicken. Gradually add chicken pieces and cook, turning, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add onion and cook until tender, about 3 minutes.

Push chicken to one side. Add wine and boil until reduced by half. Add chicken broth and heat to boiling. Stir to scrap up browned bits from bottom of pan. Cover and cook over low heat until chicken is tender, about 15 minutes.

Add zucchini and cherry tomatoes. Cover and cook until zucchini is tender but still bright green, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with lemon juice and mint. Serve with orzo or cooked rice. Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 25 to 30 minutes

PARMESAN ORZO

1 1/2 cups orzo or other tiny pasta shape

Salt

2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley

Bring large saucepan of water to boil. Stir in orzo and salt to taste. Partially cover pan and over high heat return to rapid boil, stirring to prevent pasta from sticking to bottom of pan.

Uncover and boil orzo until tender, 12 to 15 minutes, depending on pasta (taste it along the way and cook it to desired consistency). Drain pasta. Toss with cheese and parsley and serve with chicken. Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 5 minutes

Cooking time: 12 to 15 minutes

ORANGES WITH WHITE WINE AND CINNAMON

3 or 4 large oranges, preferably seedless

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

1 cup dry white wine (or fresh orange juice)

Ground cinnamon

Using thin sharp knife, cut orange peel and white pith from oranges. Cut into 1/3-inch-thick slices and remove seeds. Arrange orange slices, slightly overlapping, in wide shallow bowl or platter. Sprinkle with sugar. Add wine. Dust lightly with cinnamon.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until well chilled. Serve on dessert plates with knife and fork. Makes 4 servings.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

(Marie Simmons is the author of the newly published ``The Good Egg,`` Houghton Mifflin.)

(c) 2001, Marie Simmons. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate International, a division of Tribune Media Services.

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Author: Marie Simmons