ARE FRESH PEAS PASSE

Once commonplace on the American table, peas in the pod have become almost exotic. You can find them at specialty stores and farmers markets but rarely at supermarkets. With inexpensive frozen peas so readily available, who feels like shelling fresh peas? I do, occasionally, for a leisurely lunch when I want to pamper my family.

Shelling peas for two to four people doesn't take long and happily, these green jewels cook quickly. If you are lucky, you might sometimes find fresh peas already shelled. Remember, however, to inquire when they were removed from their pods. If they are more than a day old, they might be mealy.

In my culinary schooling in France I found that restaurant chefs preferred cooking peas the ``natural'' way, adding few ingredients so their intrinsic character remained evident. Generally they boiled the peas briefly in salted water so they stayed bright green, then tossed them with butter.

Perhaps it was the British who first prepared peas this way. That might explain why the French gave them credit, calling this cooking technique ``a l'anglaise'' -- in the English fashion.

In some of our markets fresh peas are labeled English peas because many varieties were developed in Britain.

My husband's Aunt Mazal, who was born in Yemen at the southern tip of Arabia, cooks peas in a completely different manner, with tomatoes, garlic, cumin, turmeric and plenty of pepper. The result resembles an Indian vegetable stew. Until I tried her version, I was persuaded that the French way with peas was peerless. With their savory sauce, her spicy peas made an excellent meatless entree when spooned over rice or bulgur wheat.

Another French recipe for peas that I love calls for braising them with spring onions, delicate lettuce and butter. This country dish has the honor of being dubbed ``a la francaise'' -- in the French style. Most likely it came about when French cooks picking peas in their potagers (vegetable gardens) came across baby onions and lettuce growing at the same time. Like the Yemenite peas, these rustic French peas cook slowly until they're very tender. They too are saucy and taste great with rice or with a thick slice of crusty baguette or whole-wheat bread. The French peas gain flavor from subtle seasonings a bouquet garni of fresh thyme, bay leaf and parsley, maybe a little chervil and a pinch of sugar to highlight the vegetable's sweetness.

Now all three formulas for peas have become standard in my kitchen. When I find fresh peas, I opt for the simplest recipe because I can't wait to eat them. Besides, I want to savor this infrequent delicacy without distracting flavors.

Next year I hope to enjoy the ultimate luxury in peas -- I'll plant them in my own potager so that I will have plenty of super-fresh, organic ones to relish in my prized pea preparations.

PEAS IN SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

People in the Middle East, where this dish originated, like their vegetables thoroughly cooked. If you prefer the peas lightly cooked and bright green, cook fresh ones in boiling water for 3 to 5 minutes or until just tender, and simply warm them in the sauce. You can heat frozen peas directly in the sauce because they are already cooked.

Serve these peas as a vegetarian main dish with rice, or as an accompaniment for roasted or braised chicken or turkey.

Like other legumes, peas are a low-fat source of protein. With only 67 calories in half a cup, they also contain good amounts of vitamins A and C, several B vitamins, iron and fiber. Choose pods that are firm and bright green with plump peas. You can keep them up to three days in a plastic food bag in the refrigerator.

1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 medium onion, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 (28-ounce) can tomatoes, drained and pureed

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 to 4 tablespoons water

2 garlic cloves, minced

About 2 pounds fresh peas, shelled and rinsed (about 2 cups shelled) or 2 cups frozen

Heat oil in large saucepan or saute pan. Add onion and saute over medium heat about 6 minutes or until light brown. Add cumin, turmeric and pureed tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to boil.

Cover and cook over low heat 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add tomato paste, water, garlic and peas. Cover and cook 10 to 20 minutes or until peas are tender, or done as desired. Taste and adjust seasonings. Season generously with pepper.

Makes 2 main-course or 4 side-dish servings.

(Faye Levy is the author of ``30 Low-Fat Meals in 30 Minutes,'' Warner, and the ``Fresh From France'' cookbook series, Dutton.)

(c) 2000, Faye Levy. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Faye Levy