CHEF AT SEA

As chef-owner of Patina in Los Angeles, along with six Pinot restaurants that stretch from Napa Valley to Las Vegas and several Nick & Stef`s Steakhouses, Joachim Splichal is accustomed to creating recipes -- and a vision -- for restaurants that he will cook in only occasionally. But putting his stamp on the cuisine of a cruise ship line presents tougher challenges. That is why, as consulting chef of Windstar Cruises, Splichal and several of his chefs spend several weeks a year aboard Windstar`s four-masted clipper ships: Wind Spirit, Wind Song, Wind Surf, and Wind Star.

On a cruise aboard the Wind Spirit from Lisbon to Nice in April, Splichal and three of his chefs supervised the introduction of 100 new recipes that he created for Windstar. In Los Angeles, each recipe was tested and photographed as it should look on the plate. Copies of the recipes for the menus -- with their photos -- hang above each workstation in the galley. Executive Chef Nicolas Martineau, who trained in France and New York, and his Filipino cooks use the recipes and photos as they work.

In explaining the challenges of devising recipes for Windstar, Splichal said, ``They`ve got to be similar to those of Patina and Pinot, but they must be made with limited ingredients. A cruise ship`s galley just isn`t as spacious as the kitchens in my restaurants, and you don`t have access to fresh ingredients every day. If you run out of something, you can`t exactly drive to the market. And because there`s no gas on the ship due to fire regulations, you can`t cook with an open flame, so you`re stuck doing everything on an electric grill or in an oven. It`s hard to get them up to the heat we`re used to at home.``

Splichal also dealt with a staff that had not been trained in his restaurant kitchens. And, finally, whereas in restaurants, guests are seated at different times and dine leisurely, on a Windstar cruise ship, everyone wants to eat at the same time. ``Especially after a shore excursion, everyone is hungry. They all sit down at 7:30. By 9 o`clock, the dining room`s empty. In between, the kitchen has to work double-time,`` said Splichal.

For all these reasons, the recipes that Splichal devised for the Windstar Cruise ships are simpler to prepare than those for his restaurants, which is good news for the home cook.

The Windstar dishes are representative of Splichal`s signature rustic, California-Provencal cuisine served at Patina and in the Pinot restaurants, but they incorporate accents reflective of the countries along the Windstar routes.

On this cruise between Lisbon and Nice, when the Wind Spirit docked for the day in Malaga in southern Spain, Splichal took advantage of the opportunity to shop in the central market, a structure whose arched, stone entrance reflects the city`s Moorish past. Inside, however, the facility is state of the art with its gleaming white tiles and row upon row of immaculate stalls -- and it`s just a few blocks from the port.

Because Splichal was born and raised in Germany, and trained on the French Riviera before moving to the United States, he appreciates the quality of the ingredients found in European markets.

The following Windstar recipes were adapted by Sharon and Julia Boorstin.

WARM MOZZARELLA WITH FRESH TOMATOES AND HERBS

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

2 shallots, minced

1/4 cup minced chives

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

4 medium-large tomatoes, peeled and sliced

Sea salt, ground white pepper

3/4 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, sliced

3 bunches baby arugula, for garnish

2 ounces basil-infused olive oil

To make herb vinaigrette, mix vinegar, oil, shallots, chives, parsley, garlic, basil and oregano.

Place bottom slices of tomatoes on baking sheet. On top of each, spread some herb vinaigrette. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with 1 slice mozzarella cheese. Continue stacking tomato slices, herb vinaigrette, salt and pepper and cheese, ending with tomato slice.

Bake at 350 degrees until tomatoes are warm and cheese barely begins to melt, 5 to 8 minutes. Place each tomato stack on plate. Garnish with arugula. Drizzle with basil-infused oil. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

SALMON WITH HERB CRUST, STEWED TOMATOES AND GARLICKY BROCCOLI RABE

1 white onion, chopped

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 cups canned tomatoes, seeded, drained and chopped

2 tablespoons julienned fresh basil

1 pound broccoli rabe, blanched

2 tablespoons minced garlic, toasted (see Note)

2 to 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 pound salmon tournedos (or salmon fillets)

1 1/2 cups fine bread crumbs

1/4 cup chopped parsley

In saucepan, saute onion in 2 tablespoon olive oil until soft. Add tomatoes. Bring to boil and then simmer until most of liquid evaporates, 20 minutes. Add basil. Set aside.

Saute broccoli rabe in remaining 2 tablespoon olive oil with toasted garlic, mixing well, 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside.

Spray baking pan with olive oil cooking spray. Spread Dijon mustard on both sides of salmon. Mix together bread crumbs and parsley and sprinkle on top of salmon.

Bake at 425 degrees until salmon is medium rare, about 10 minutes for tournedos, 15 to 18 minutes for fillets.

To serve, reheat sauce and divide among 4 plates. Top with broccoli rabe, then add salmon. Makes 4 servings.

NOTE: To toast minced garlic, spread on baking sheet and toast in 350-degree oven about 5 minutes, or until golden.

PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE

1 very ripe pineapple, peeled

1 cup packed brown sugar

1 cup butter, melted

6 eggs

1 1/4 cups granulated sugar

1 1/2 cups flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 tablespoon vanilla

1 cup whipped cream

Cut pineapple into fourths lengthwise. Core and then cut each fourth into triangles.

Press brown sugar in bottom of 9-inch round cake pan. Top with pineapple triangles, radiating out from center. Pour 1/2 cup melted butter over top.

Beat eggs and granulated sugar until well blended. Beat in flour and baking powder. Fold in remaining 1/2 cup melted butter and vanilla. Mix well.

Pour batter over pineapple layer. Bake at 350 degrees until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.

To serve, invert cake onto serving platter. Let cool 5 minutes before removing pan from cake. Garnish each slice with whipped cream. Makes about 8 servings.

(Sharon Boorstin is editor-in-chief of Menus.com and a restaurant and travel writer.)

(c) 2000, Los Angeles Times Syndicate. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Sharon Boorstin