ETHNIC FLAVORS: AUSTRALIA -- PAVLOVA

When sweetened egg whites are baked into a large shell the size of a hubcap, the result is called a meringue. When the meringue is filled with whipped cream and crowned with fresh sweetened fruits, it becomes a pavlova. The confection was named after the famous ballerina who danced in the early part of the last century. The pavlova is the national dessert of Australia.

There is some argument, however, as to whether to credit Australia or New Zealand with the discovery of the secret delights of this crisp dessert. Here is one version of the story.

Anna Pavlova performed her only season in Perth in 1929 on her second Australian tour. Her performances were pronounced exquisite and memorable, with many exclamation points in the reviews. Alas, she died two years later, but her memory survived at Perth`s Hotel Esplanade where she stayed and must have made quite an impression.

In 1934, the owner of the hotel commissioned the chef to come up with something extra special for the hotel`s afternoon tea. The chef presented a meringue and cream cake, and everyone who tasted it remarked, ``It is as light as Pavlova. It`s as white and delicate as her tutu.`` It caught the popular imagination and became a classic.

In truth, it`s conceded that New Zealanders, also impressed by the ballerina`s lightness and whiteness, conceived the meringue cake, but neglected to give it a namesake moniker. Recipes for the confection were common there in the early 1930s. The New Zealand meringue cake was to all intents and purposes what the Australians christened pavlova.

No matter what you call them, meringues have much to offer and are worth a bit of investigating and understanding. Because a meringue is little more than a crisp network of sugar and egg whites, it couldn`t be less expensive or easier to make. The large or individual free-form shells don`t even require a pastry bag. You just plop blobs of freshly whipped meringue onto a parchment-paper-lined tray, then shape them with the back of a spoon and bake them until they dry out. They get bonus points for being fat- and cholesterol-free.

Meringue shells must be made in advance, and once baked they make a quick, inexpensive and totally delicious dessert when filled with sweetened fruits, ice cream or whipped cream -- or all three.

If you follow these guidelines, the guesswork is gone and the guest work is done.

SIDEBAR: TIPS FOR SUCCESS

Don`t even think about making meringues on a day that`s humid or rainy. Meringues have a high sugar content. Because sugar absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, meringues will become soft and sticky if exposed to a dampenvironment.

For the best volume and texture, sugar is added to the meringue mixture in two stages. Most of the sugar is added during whipping of the egg whites so that it has a chance to dissolve. When the mixture is as fluffy as a cumulus cloud, a final measure of sugar is folded, not beaten, in.

You can make meringues when any number of egg whites are on hand if you remember this formula: For every egg white, use 4 tablespoons sugar, 1/4 teaspoon vanilla, a pinch of cream of tartar and a few grains of salt.

Meringues must be piped or shaped immediately after they are beaten. Even a short rest can allow the moisture from the egg whites to separate and form a thin syrup that causes the whites to deflate. Work quickly.

Where meringues are concerned, white is right. But depending on your oven and the thickness of the shells, meringues can take on color and turn ivory or champagne in color while they are drying. The slight browning is caused by the caramelization of some of the sugar. The trade-off, however, is increased flavor in the shells.

When you touch a meringue in the oven, it is still tacky. You might think that it isn`t done. The low heat dries them out, but meringues only become hard and crisp when they`ve had a chance to cool for five or 10 minutes.

One way to see if the meringue is done is to make a few mini test meringues. When the timer indicates the ``real`` meringues are due to be done, remove one. Let it cool and check its crispness. Don`t worry about the shells that are still in the oven. The temperature is so low that an extra few minutes won`t harm them.

To keep meringues crisp, they must be protected from all moisture. When completely cool, store them at room temperature in airtight food containers. They`ll keep for a long time.

Here`s something you should know about the star ingredient: how long you can safely keep eggs. According to the National Egg Board, whites will keep for up to four days if stored in a covered food container in the refrigerator. Store the yolks in a covered food container in the refrigerator with a tablespoon or so of water added to keep them from drying out, and be sure to use them within a day or two.

The extra yolks can be added to a cake mix or meat loaf instead of a whole egg. They`re needed in recipes for lemon curd, mayonnaise, Hollandaise sauce or creme brulee. And the vet will tell you that an occasional egg yolk is good for your dog`s or cat`s coat.

One last word on meringues` favorite partner, whipped cream. The crisp and shattering crunch of the meringue is wonderfully set off when topped by velvety whipped cream. For the softest, most voluptuous and dollopy whipped cream, use ultra-pasteurized heavy cream because it mounds better than plain pasteurized when it`s whipped.

CLASSIC MINI PAVLOVAS

Choose a dry day to make the meringues. When thoroughly dry, keep meringues in an airtight food container. Once made, meringue shells make a quick, inexpensive dessert filled with fruit, ice cream or whipped cream.

1/2 cup (about 4 large) egg whites, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Dash salt

1 cup superfine sugar

Whipped cream

Sweetened assorted fresh fruits such as sliced strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and sliced kiwi and peaches.

Cover large baking sheet with parchment paper. Using rim of can or bowl, trace 8 circles on paper, leaving at least 1 inch between circles. Spray cooking spray over paper to insure easy removal when meringues are done. Set aside.

In large bowl of electric mixer, combine egg whites, vanilla, cream of tartar and dash of salt. Beat at low speed just until egg whites are frothy. Increase speed to medium and gradually add 3/4 cup superfine sugar, 1 tablespoon at time, beating continuously until stiff, glossy peaks form. (Mixture has been beaten enough when bit of it, rubbed between thumb and finger, is no longer grainy.) Gently fold in remaining 1/4 cup sugar.

Place dab of meringue in each of 4 corners of parchment to hold in place. Divide meringue into 8 blobs on circular patterns on baking sheet. With back of spoon, even out mixture inside each circle and make depression in middle. Drop few meringue ``kisses`` on side of sheet to be used as testers.

Bake at 225 degrees 60 to 80 minutes until one of test samples releases easily from paper and snaps crisply after 5 minutes of cooling. Meringues only become crisp after initial cooling out of oven. Then turn off oven heat, but leave meringues in oven to continue to dry about 6 hours or overnight. Store in airtight covered food container.

When ready to use, spoon whipped cream into meringue indentations and top with fresh fruit. Makes 8 pavlovas.

(Marlene Parrish is a cookbook author and food writer based in Pittsburgh. She is a 2000 James Beard Foundation Journalism Award winner.)

(c) 2000, Marlene Parrish. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Marlene Parrish