BASQUE COUNTRY COOKING

The Basque country area is renowned for its unique culture, exceptional food and outstanding chefs. This area in north-central Spain on the French border is made up of three small provinces. The Basque have their own ancient language and a fiercely independent nature.

Many tourists are headed for the Basque area to check out the Guggenheim Museum that opened a few years ago in Bilbao. Some of the most respected architects and critics in the world have called the museum the greatest building of the 20th century -- stunning, awe-inspiring and even miraculous. Because over one-third of Spain`s top-rated restaurants are here, some of the world`s most respected dining critics are saying the same thing about the food.

What tourists will find in the villages and coastal towns of Bilbao and the region`s capital city, San Sebastian, are streets crammed with tapas bars, grill houses and extraordinary restaurants where many Basque chefs offer either traditional or contemporary cuisine.

The Basque obsession with food is a symbol of their deep regional pride, especially among the men. In the 19th century they formed men-only eating clubs to show off their culinary talents to one another. The Basque epicurean societies, with memberships as small as 15 and as large as 100, are still going strong today. The men meet as often as weekly to spend an evening cooking, drinking and eating. Custom dictates, however, that men don`t cook at home. Home cooking is done by the women, and it is traditional for them to pass along the techniques to their daughters and granddaughters.

Because of the geographical isolation of the area, some of the food comes as a surprise. Much of it is unfamiliar to outsiders, and many dishes rely on ingredients that are unavailable outside of Spain. The long coastline along the Atlantic and the Bay of Biscay define much of Basque cooking. There is an abundance of fresh fish and seafood, including shrimp, spider crabs, clams and baby eels the size of matchsticks.

Salt cod, or (ITAL) bacalao (uñTAL), is a signature food and a Basque favorite since the days when fishermen sailed off the Atlantic Coast of North America, long before Columbus. The cod that they caught had to be salted and dried to preserve it.

Inland farmers supply Basques with lamb, pork and game that is usually served grilled. The cooking also relies heavily on onions, leeks, parsley and peppers.

Olive oil is the primary fat used in cooking, because Spain is the largest producer of olive oil in the world.

The Basque cuisine relies on four basic sauces. There`s a green sauce based on parsley, garlic and oil; Biscayne sauce made from dried red choricero peppers and onions; and black squid ink sauce. The fourth sauce, (ITAL) pil pil (uñTAL), is the highlight of a signature dish, (ITAL) bacalao al pil pil (uñTAL). Olive oil is shaken, not stirred, over a flame in a casserole with the fish until it forms a suave mayonnaise-like sauce.

Meals begin with tapas, and they are practically a mini-cuisine to the Basques. They`re called (ITAL) pinchos. These bite-size appetizers were originally always skewered on wooden picks. Expect to taste salt cod croquette morsels, sizzling parsley-filled mushrooms caps, zesty crab-topped baguette slices, serrano ham and anchovies.

Snowy white squid in black ink sauce is among the most typical of Basque dishes. The sauce is jet black and can be visually intimidating. It may take a few cautious bites before a diner is hooked on the thick, velvety sauce, sweet from caramelized onions and leeks and black from cuttlefish ink.

Other typical dishes include clams, crayfish, turbot, rabbit, lamb and oxtails. In the Basque region, cooks often use the tails of slain fighting bulls.

Basque desserts are simple. A piece of fruit or some custardy dish is enough.

And what does one sip? Ruby red Rioja wines are preferred by the Basques. In summer, when a light, clean-tasting wine is preferred, a sparkling white wine called Txakoli is virtually the national drink.

PUFFED PAN-FRIED SCROD

The lightly puffed coating on the fish is made by dipping flour-coated fillets into a foamy egg batter before frying. Throughout the Basque area, all types of filleted fish are pan-fried this way. Serve with a salad and fries.

About 2 pounds scrod (young cod) fillets, cut into 1x2-inch pieces

3 tablespoons flour

Salt

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup olive oil

Flatten fillets with your palm to even 3/4-inch thickness.

Spread flour in shallow dish. Season fish with salt. Dredge fish in flour. Shake off excess. Set fish aside.

Beat egg whites in medium bowl until foamy but not into peaks. Lightly whisk yolks, then stir into beaten whites until mixture is smooth.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Dip fish pieces into batter, then drop into skillet. As fish browns, turn fillets over, for total of about 2 minutes cooking time. Remove fish from skillet, drain on paper towels. Serve immediately. Makes 2 to 3 servings.

(Adapted from ``The Basque Table`` by Teresa Barrenechea, Harvard Common Press.)

RED SNAPPER GUERNICA-STYLE

Guernica is a town east of Bilbao. Its name is famous ever since the bombings there during the Spanish Civil War. The world`s outrage provoked Pablo Picasso to paint his famous canvas. The town is also famous for this style of simple fish.

4 (1/2-pound) red snapper fillets, skin on

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil

Salt

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1 tablespoon sherry vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Place fillets, skin side down, on lightly oiled baking pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Bake at 500 degrees until fish is opaque throughout, about 10 minutes. Transfer fillets to hot platter.

Heat oil in small skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high. Add pepper flakes and vinegar. Take care as vinegar may cause ingredients in skillet to flare up. Cook, stirring, until sauce is blended, about 10 seconds. Spoon sauce over fillets and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.

(Adapted from ``The Basque Table`` by Teresa Barrenechea, Harvard Common Press.)

PINCHOS GILDA

These tapas are named after the 1946 movie oldie, starring Rita Hayworth in the leading role of Gilda. The Spanish fell in love with her sensual, fiery character and named this spicy pincho after her.

20 small green pitted olives

10 canned anchovy fillets, drained

10 pepperoncini or other small hot pickled peppers

On wood pick, skewer 1 olive, 1 folded anchovy, 1 pepper and then another olive. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Makes 10 pinchos.

(Adapted from ``The Basque Table`` by Teresa Barrenechea, Harvard Common Press.)

PEARS WITH RIOJA WINE

This is a beautiful autumn dessert. Make it in the fall when pears are plentiful.

4 large firm pears, such as Bosc or Bartlett, peeled, halved lengthwise and cored

4 cups red Rioja wine

2/3 cup sugar

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons strawberry or raspberry preserves

In saucepan just large enough to hold pears comfortably, combine pears with wine, sugar and cinnamon stick. Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce to low and cook until pears are fork tender, 30 minutes. Lift pears from pan and set aside to cool.

Discard cinnamon stick. Add preserves to pan. Increase heat and boil, stirring constantly, until preserves melt and sauce is smooth, about 5 minutes. Place 2 pear halves on each plate and spoon sauce over top. Makes 4 servings.

(Adapted from ``The Basque Table`` by Teresa Barrenechea, Harvard Common Press.)

(Marlene Parrish is a cookbook author and food writer based in Pittsburgh. She is a 2000 James Beard Foundation Journalism Award winner.)(c) 2000, Marlene Parrish. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

Article continues below

---

advertisement

---

Author: Marlene Parrish