HOMEMADE FLAVORED OILS -- GREAT FLAVOR? YES. DEADLY? POSSIBLY!

Gourmet sections in stores have beautiful bottles of marvelous flavored oils -- everything from basil, lemon or tangerine to roasted garlic or chile oil. And, flavored oils are wonderful! A small amount of an intensely flavored oil on steamed broccoli or grilled vegetables takes them from being just vegetables to extraordinary, memorable taste sensations.

You may gasp when you look at the price on some of these gourmet oils. And, you may think, ``There`s nothing to making one of these. Just heat the oil with minced garlic and perhaps pour it over a fresh herb while it is warm, let it stand for the flavors to meld. Voila! A flavored oil!`` This is all true, and great if you use the oil within eight hours, or refrigerate it immediately and use it within a few days.

Microbiologist Dr. Joe Madden, at the Food and Drug Administration, has advised that you should not let homemade flavored oils steep at room temperature any longer than about eight hours, and then keep it refrigerated for use within a maximum of 10 days.

Some of the flavored oils you buy can sit out on the table. Why all this fuss with homemade flavored oils? In a word, botulism. (ITAL) Clostridium botulinum (uñTAL), rod-shaped bacteria that are commonly found in soil and grow best in low-oxygen conditions, can thrive on garlic or even herbs under oil at room temperature and produce a deadly neurotoxin.

Botulism is always a medical emergency with symptoms that can progress rapidly from double vision, slurred speech and difficulty swallowing to respiratory arrest and death. One-third of those diagnosed may die. Botulism survivors can face slow recovery. In a case in Oklahoma in 1994, a man spent 42 days on a respirator and a total of 49 days in the hospital. This is not something that you want to risk!

What is the straight scoop on flavored oils? Bacteria are killed by heat, so you would think that after you roast garlic or heat it in oil, it would be safe. Unfortunately, this is not the case. The botulinum bacteria form spores which allow them to survive in a dormant state until they are in conditions that are suitable for growth. Garlic under oil -- a low-oxygen (anerobic) environment -- provides an ideal growth situation. The spores can hatch and the bacteria can grow rapidly at room temperature to produce the deadly toxin.

Heating kills the bacteria, but not the spores which can easily survive even lengthy periods of boiling. Straining the garlic out of the oil does not eliminate the risk either.

Since 1989, commercial garlic oil or garlic-in-oil products in the United States must follow strict FDA guidelines and must contain microbial inhibitors or an acid (such as citric or phosphoric acid) to increase acidity. Read the label of any commercial oil flavored with garlic or herbs. It should contain an acid (or antimicrobial agent) and a warning such as ``Requires Refrigeration`` or ``Refrigerate Both Before and After Opening.``

No matter how fond you are of a generous friend, view a gift of flavored oil with suspicion and ask how it was made and how long it has been stored and how. The same suspicions should be followed with respect to imported oils whose preparation probably has not followed FDA guidelines.

When I see a bottle of olive oil with garlic or herbs in it on a restaurant table, I tell the manager that it`s safe on the day made, but no longer. A major problem is that toxin production can occur in a product without affecting its smell or taste.

Acidifying garlic in vinegar at home is a lengthy and highly variable process. One clove of garlic can take from three days to more than a week to become sufficiently acidic. It is not safe to try to do this at home without equipment to monitor acidity. Many commercial garlic product companies have a microbiologist on the staff to maintain constant checks on product safety.

Flavored oils made and used within about eight hours are safe and good for you. Or you can make a flavored oil, keep it refrigerated, and use or discard it within 10 days.

Here are two of my favorite flavored oils. Chiles, just like garlic, can contain botulinum spores and you should abide by the rules for chile oils, too: only eight hours unrefrigerated, and less than 10 days refrigerated.

Note: The Internet contains many half-truths and information that are completely incorrect on garlic and herbs in oil. The reader who is interested in U.S. Government information can start at the following two sites from the Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA): http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/Imow/intro.html for the ``Bad Bug Book`` which provides facts on foodborne pathogenic microorganisms and natural toxins, and http://vm.cfsan.fda.gov/Imow/foodborn.html (cq) for many links on foodborne illnesses.

BROCCOLI WITH CHILE OIL

My daughter, who is a Brown graduate and has examined many religions, said the Broccoli With Chile Oil was a sensation at a Buddhist breakfast. I suppose you could say this got rave reviews from vegetable experts.

The heat of the pepper can be controlled by the amount of the white, vein-like material holding the seeds that is included. The amount in this recipe gives a medium ``kick.`` This is a vinaigrette without the vinegar. Water replaces vinegar to keep the broccoli bright green. (Acidic ingredients cause cooked green vegetables to turn yucky army drab.) This recipe contains both oil and water to carry more flavors since some flavor components dissolve in oil and some in water or water-type liquids like vinegar.

1 medium jalapeno chile with only half of seeds and veins removed, minced

1 shallot, minced

1/3 cup mild olive oil or blended vegetable oil

3 tablespoons water

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Broccoli florets from 5 stalks, steamed 5 minutes only

In small saucepan, heat jalapeno chile, shallot and oil in small saucepan over medium heat several minutes. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes for flavors to meld. While oil is still warm, stir in water, sugar, salt and pepper.

When ready to serve, spoon flavored oil over steamed broccoli and gently toss. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Safety Note: Use this oil immediately.

PASTA WITH GARLIC-CHILE OIL

(Variation of Chile Oil, recipe above)

Thinly slice 5 garlic cloves and use 1 small chopped serrano or jalapeno chile, seeds and veins included. Combine with shallot and oil and heat as directed in recipe above. Add water, sugar, salt and pepper (as in recipe above).

Bring large pot of water with about 2 gallons water and 1 tablespoon salt to rapid boil. Add 8 ounces spaghetti and continue to stir 1 full minute to prevent sticking. When spaghetti is tender, heat Garlic-Chile Oil just prepared in large skillet. Drain pasta and stir into hot oil. Serve immediately. Makes 2 servings.

Safety Note: Use this oil immediately.

(Food scientist Shirley O. Corriher is the author of ``CookWise,`` William Morrow; 1997.)

(c) 2000, Shirley O. Corriher. Distributed by Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Shirley Corriher