THE EGG IS BACK

What a relief. The egg is fashionable again! The poor egg -- once considered the perfect food and universally revered -- went into a sharp decline in the 1970s and `80s because of salmonella and cholesterol scares. But the latest dietary research has determined that for a healthy person, eating eggs in moderation does not necessarily raise cholesterol levels or increase the risk of heart disease.

But the Big Scare put some people at a severe disadvantage. ``Because of the egg phobia that gripped America ... there`s at least one, even two, generations that never learned how to properly cook, prepare or enjoy eggs,`` writes Marie Simmons, author of the newly published ``The Good Egg: More Than 200 Fresh Approaches From Soup to Dessert`` (Houghton Mifflin, 446 pages, $27). So Simmons, food columnist and the author of 12 other cookbooks, compiled more than 235 recipes -- for both seasoned and novice cooks -- because she believes that when you have an egg, you can make a perfect meal at a moment`s notice. After all, the egg is a very versatile food, she writes, and ``makes a custard set, a sauce thicken, a cake rise and a souffle puff.``

In a telephone interview, Simmons said that what surprised her on her recent tour to Boston, New York, the mid-West and West to promote the book was that health concerns were minimal; the people she talked to liked eggs. ``Amazingly, what puzzled people was the difference between brown and white eggs. They thought brown eggs were healthier because they were brown -- like whole wheat.`` Actually, there is no nutritional difference between the two different colored eggs.

During the three years of testing and retesting of the recipes for her book, Simmons always kept at least 10 dozen eggs in her refrigerator. Interestingly enough, her cholesterol never went up during this period. And she made a few discoveries.

-- She found that some of the most consistently fresh eggs came from her supermarket. Simmons attributes this to fast turnover.

-- When egg yolks are mixed with olive oil instead of mayonnaise, the texture is not only creamier but the flavor improves. (See recipe below for A Different Egg Salad Sandwich.)

-- The freshness of an egg is related to how it is stored. ``An egg will age more if left at room temperature for one hour than it will for one week stored in the refrigerator,`` Simmons said.

-- Simmons also found that the ``Taste of an egg and the freshness of an egg are not necessarily related. Taste is 99 percent related to what the hen is fed and how it is raised -- the type of grain, formula, whether it is free-range or not.``

This comprehensive book demonstrates the basics (scrambled, baked, poached and stuffed eggs) for those who have never mastered them, but it is also of value for cooks who might need a refresher course. Still, Simmons pushes the boundaries further, as the book`s title affirms -- these are fresh approaches to preparing eggs. Take note of the Beyond the Usual Egg Salad chapter where Simmons transforms the familiar and takes egg salad out of the ordinary with simple additions of beets, green and white beans and artichokes or more sophisticated fare such as shrimp, smoked salmon or caviar.

Spaghetti, too, gets a makeover. The same old red stuff isn`t dumped on top. Instead, eggs are recruited to sauce the thin strands. To the long-time Italian favorite, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, Simmons adds a new twist. Instead of bacon, she adds chopped carrots, cauliflower and green beans. Peeking between the familiar lasagna layers also are surprises; for example, in one recipe hard-cooked eggs add richness to the union of artichokes and mushrooms. For her own dinner parties, Simmons likes to prepare Fresh Fig and Prosciutto Frittata With Mild Asiago. This starter can be made ahead, cut into thin wedges and left at room temperature until ready to serve.

Simmons not only rescues the egg from oblivion, but the quiche as well, heeding Julia Child`s plea to ``Bring back the quiche.`` And she does -- with nine recipes that include a variety of meats, vegetables and cheese added to the usual egg-milk mixture.

International flavors influenced her choices as well. During her travels, Simmons discovered an Afghan yogurt and garlic sauce that delicately coats poached eggs; another recipe is for a popular street food from Tunisia called Brik or Fried Filo Packets With Egg, Onion and Cilantro. For those who demand more of a culinary challenge, Simmons suggests making Fresh Pasta With Poached Eggs, Toasted Walnuts and Parmesan, a recipe that requires some organizational skills.

Simmons has done a superb job. Her book has been thoroughly researched, the recipes are clearly written, and there are interesting snippets of food information and personalized anecdotes, for Simmons, like Oscar Wilde, believes that ``An egg is always an adventure.`` It`s also inexpensive and plentiful. Plenty of reason to once again make eggs a delicious staple in the home kitchen.

Here is a sampling of recipes from ``The Good Egg.``

EGGS BAKED IN FRESH TOMATO SALSA WITH MELTED CHEESE

Make your own fresh tomato salsa, or buy a good-quality refrigerated fresh salsa from the supermarket. The flavors are best if you prepare the fresh salsa just before baking and serving. The entire dish, including preparation and cooking times, takes less than 30 minutes.

Extra-virgin olive oil

Tomato Salsa:

2 1/2 cups diced (1/4 inch) tomatoes (2 to 3 large ripe tomatoes)

1/4 cup finely chopped sweet onion

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro or basil

2 teaspoons fresh lime or lemon juice

1 to 2 teaspoons minced jalapeno chile

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Eggs:

4 large eggs

1 cup shredded Monterey Jack or mozzarella cheese (about 4 ounces)

Toasted bread

Brush 4 (8-ounce) ramekins or small gratin dishes (about 5 inches in diameter and 1 inch deep) with olive oil. Set dishes on baking sheet

To prepare Salsa, combine tomatoes, onion, oil, cilantro, lime juice, jalapeno and salt in medium bowl and stir to blend.

Distribute salsa evenly among prepared dishes. Make indentation in middle of salsa in each dish. One at a time, break eggs into a cup and slip 1 egg into each dish.

Bake at 400 degrees until whites are set, about 8 minutes. Serve at once with toasted bread. Makes 4 servings.

Note: A little wine vinegar can be used instead of lime or lemon juice. Red onion and mix of red and yellow tomatoes are also good.

SPAGHETTI AND VEGETABLES, CARBONARA-STYLE

This recipe substitutes three popular vegetables -- carrots, cauliflower and green beans -- for the meat in traditional spaghetti carbonara. Wine, not usually an ingredient in carbonara, adds flavor that is lost when the bacon is omitted.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, bruised with side of knife

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 pound spaghetti

Kosher salt

2 cups 2-inch lengths green beans

1 cup small cauliflower florets

1 cup slender carrot sticks (about 1/4x2 inches)

5 large eggs, at room temperature

2 tablespoons milk or cream, at room temperature, or pasta cooking liquid

1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for serving

Freshly ground black pepper

In deep skillet large enough to contain cooked spaghetti and vegetables, melt butter over low heat. Add garlic and cook, stirring, until golden. Stir in wine. Bring to boil and boil until reduced by half. Set aside.

Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in large pot of boiling salted water 5 minutes. Add vegetables and boil until spaghetti is al dente and vegetables are tender, 4 to 6 minutes longer.

Meanwhile, whisk eggs and milk in bowl until well blended. Set colander in serving bowl in sink.

Drain pasta and vegetables in colander and immediately lift out of bowl to drain off almost, but not quite, all water. Add pasta and vegetables to skillet. Stir in egg mixture and grated cheese. Toss vigorously so that eggs cook through in heat from steaming pasta but do not scramble.

Discard water from warm bowl. Blot dry. Immediately add spaghetti mixture. Add liberal grinding of pepper and serve at once with more cheese. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

FALLEN CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE CAKE

Made without flour or butter, this moist, tender cake has a pure chocolate flavor. Because flavor and texture of this cake improve upon standing, I like to make it a day ahead.

8 ounces good-quality semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature

1/2 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 cup whipping cream, softly whipped

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Set aside to cool to room temperature. (Or melt in microwave 3 minutes, stirring every 30 seconds until smooth.)

Beat egg yolks in large bowl until thick and light in color. Beat in 6 tablespoons sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until thick and light. Add chocolate and vanilla and stir until blended. (Mixture will be thick.)

Beat egg whites in large bowl until foamy. Add cream of tartar. Gradually beat in remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until whites form shiny soft peaks. Add 1/4 of whites to yolk mixture and fold in until blended. Spoon remaining whites over yolk mixture and gently fold in until incorporated.

Pour batter into lightly buttered 8-inch springform pan, smoothing top. Bake at 325 degrees on center rack until top has puffed and is firm to the touch, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven and cool on rack. Cake will fall and edges will crack slightly. When cool, loosen outside rim of pan and remove. Wrap cake loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

To serve, cut into wedges and top each with spoonful of whipped cream. Makes 8 servings.

(Lucy Barajikian is a food and travel writer in Los Angeles, Calif.)

(c) 2000, Lucy Barajikian. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Lucy Barajikian