THE QUEENLY SPICE

Four thousand flowers or more make up one ounce of dried saffron, the most expensive spice available. Its source is the tiny purple crocus (Crocus sativus), an autumn-blooming plant found in Nebraska-like areas of Spain and India.

Saffron is harvested by hand. The center of each brilliant bloom holds three tiny red-orange stigmas, the goal of the saffron harvester. These threads are picked, then gently dried over heat before packaging in 1/2 gram and full-gram vials.

Although primarily a Spanish or Indian seasoning, saffron has spread to foods of many cultures, including the bouillabaisse (fish stew) of southern France and some Asian curries. It is prized for its ability to turn any food it touches a deep red-gold; it also lends a savory flavor that some consider spicy and hard to duplicate.

It's unfortunate for the pocketbook that imported saffron has a richness so hard to match. In a thrifty moment, I once substituted a false saffron, made from the Mexican safflower plant. I came across this spice in Oregon where it was sold as ``American saffron'' for 34 cents an ounce. About eight times as much finally brought out the color of imported saffron, but none of the spicy saffron flavor ever came through. So now I stick with the real thing.

SAFFRON TOMATO SAUCE WITH SHALLOTS

This heady, rich sauce is a perfect showcase for the spiciness that imported saffron can lend to foods. Try it over homemade pasta.

1/2 cup dry Sherry or nonalcoholic red wine

1/2 large red onion, finely chopped

2 large shallots, finely chopped

4 large garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can crushed peeled tomatoes or 1 1/2 cups peeled diced fresh tomatoes

1 cup unsalted tomato juice

1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper or to taste

2 generous dashes saffron threads

Bring Sherry to simmer in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook, stirring, until soft but not browned, 5 minutes. Add water if needed to prevent browning. Add shallots and garlic and cook 2 minutes.

Add tomato paste, crushed tomatoes, tomato juice, red pepper and saffron. Bring to boil. Lower heat to medium and simmer 10 minutes. Let cool slightly, then puree. Makes about 2 cups.

SAFFRON RICE WITH VEGETABLES

A most common pairing is saffron and rice, as in this vegetarian casserole, an everyday version of Spanish paella.

1/2 cup dry Sherry or defatted broth

2 cups halved, then thinly sliced onions

3 tablespoons minced fresh garlic

1 teaspoon imported saffron threads

Water

1 large red bell pepper, cut into strips

1/2 zucchini, sliced in half lengthwise, then in small half-circles

1 tablespoon minced fresh basil

1 cup uncooked white basmati rice, rinsed twice under running water

2 tablespoons miso paste

1/2 cup frozen or fresh peas

1 green onion, sliced into thin rounds

1 cup chopped fresh spinach

8 medium snow peas, trimmed

2 teaspoons salt

Freshly ground pepper

Heat Sherry in large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until soft but not browned, 5 minutes. While vegetables are cooking, soak saffron in 1/4 cup boiling water 5 minutes, then add to pan. Stir well to combine.

Add red bell pepper, zucchini, basil and rice to pot and cook, stirring frequently, 5 minutes. Add water if rice starts to stick.

In small bowl, combine miso and 1 3/4 cups water and stir well. Add to pot. Bring to boil. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Stir in peas, green onion and spinach. Arrange snow peas in decorative circle on top. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and cook until rice is tender, 8 minutes. Serve hot, seasoned to taste. Makes 8 servings.

SAFFRON LASSI

This unusual and delicious saffron yogurt drink is adapted from ``Heaven's Banquet'' by Miriam Kasin Hospodar (Dutton, 1999).

Dash imported saffron

1 tablespoon hot water

2 cups spring water or to taste

1 cup plain low-fat yogurt

2 tablespoons honey or to taste

Dash ground cardamom

In small bowl, combine saffron and hot water. Soak 10 minutes. In blender, combine saffron with soaking water, 2 cups spring water, yogurt, honey and cardamom. Add more spring water, if desired, to achieve creamy consistency. Adjust honey to taste. Makes 2 to 3 servings.

(Mary Carroll is the author of the ``No Cholesterol (No Kidding!) Cookbook,'' Rodale Press.)

(c) 2000, Mary Carroll. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Mary Carroll