SUPER SUMMER SOUP

My husband, who grew up in Alabama, adores Southern pork barbecue, and although I make all types of barbecue, I have never been able to reproduce the slowly roasted pulled pork cooked over hickory wood that he likes so much. This past week as a surprise for his birthday, I ordered several pounds of barbecued pork from a restaurant in Memphis and had it shipped to our house. Then I called several couples and invited them to a barbecue supper.

The pork would be heated, slathered in barbecue sauce and served as sandwiches on buns so all I needed to prepare were the accompaniments. For an opener, I made a fresh cream of corn soup with bacon and chives, and as side dishes to the sandwiches I prepared baked beans made with white beans, limas and kidney beans and a coleslaw tossed in a sesame dressing. The birthday cake was a homemade lemon-coconut creation served with fresh raspberries.

I loved the ease of entertaining this way. By purchasing the delicious main course, I only had to worry about a few other dishes, all of which I made in advance. The corn soup was a perfect summer starter for our meal.

The primary ingredients -- corn and leeks -- were sauteed in a small amount of bacon drippings and then simmered in chicken stock for a half hour. Next, the mixture was pureed and enriched with half and half. Crumbled bacon and chopped chives made a delectable and colorful garnish. I served the soup warm in clear glass bowls, and everyone raved about this simple yet appealing opener.

This dish, which can be made a day ahead, could also stand on its own as an entree offered with a salad and some warm crusty peasant bread. A salad of ripe tomatoes and arugula dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette or a combination of mixed greens, avocado and crumbled goat cheese in a red wine dressing are some tempting possibilities. This recipe yields eight servings, but can be halved to serve four if you like.

SUMMER CORN SOUP WITH BACON AND CHIVES

6 to 8 ounces sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

4 cups (about 6 medium leeks) chopped leeks (see Note)

8 cups fresh corn kernels (12 to 14 ears of corn)

8 cups chicken stock

1 teaspoon salt, plus more as needed

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 cups half and half

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped chives

Saute bacon in large, heavy pot set over medium heat, stirring often, until crisp and golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. (If making soup ahead, wrap bacon in foil and refrigerate. To reheat, spread bacon on baking sheet and heat in oven at 350 degrees until crisp, about 5 minutes.)

Remove and discard all but 2 tablespoons bacon drippings in pot. Return pot to medium heat. Add leeks and saute, stirring, to soften slightly 3 minutes. Add corn kernels and stir and cook 3 minutes. Add stock, 1 teaspoon salt and cayenne and bring mixture to simmer. Lower heat and simmer, uncovered, until vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.

Remove and puree mixture in food processor, blender or food mill. Puree mixture second time so it has finer texture. Stir in half and half. Season with more salt, if needed. If serving immediately, reheat to warm half and half. (Soup can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat over low heat, stirring often.)

To serve, ladle soup into 8 serving bowls. Garnish each portion with some bacon and chopped chives. Makes 8 servings.

Note: Cut off and discard roots and dark green stems from leeks. Halve leeks lengthwise and then rinse under cold, running water to remove any bits of grit. Pat dry, then slice thinly to make 4 cups.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of ``American Favorites,`` Chapters.)

(c) 2000, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Betty Rosbottom