THAT`S ENTERTAINING: CHEESE TO THE RESCUE

In the early 1990s, I authored a cookbook which featured hors d`oeuvres. The collection included a sizable repertoire of recipes, but after its publication I have often slid into the easy habit of buying rather than preparing appetizers. Purchasing cheeses or olives or nuts to set out before a company dinner has proved a tempting alternative that is hard to resist, especially when time is short.

However, there is one time of the year when I always make an effort to produce new, interesting, homemade appetizers, and that is the fast-approaching holiday season. Between Thanksgiving and New Year`s, my husband and I might host a small Thanksgiving dinner, plan a Christmas open house or invite friends to a New Year`s Eve celebration. I like to begin these festive occasions with simple yet delicious openers.

Over the past few days, I have been working on two new starters for holiday entertaining. One is served at room temperature, the other hot. The former, an Avocado Goat Cheese Spread, is a combination of creamy chevre cheese, mashed ripe avocados, and seasonings of cumin, jalapenos, lime juice and cilantro. This make-ahead creation is delectable offered with toasted pita wedges, cherry or grape tomatoes, julienned slices of sweet red bell peppers and green onions. It is also mouthwatering as a dip to accompany skewered cooked shrimp.

A small round of Camembert, topped with honey-glazed walnuts and almonds popped in the oven until the cheese is soft but stills holds it shape, is an impressive dish that requires little work. The warm, runny cheese and crunchy nuts taste best spread on thin apple or pear wedges.

You could offer either of these hors d`oeuvres to begin a buffet supper or use both as part of a menu for a large open house. The avocado chevre spread can be assembled a day ahead and will still retain its lovely, pale-green hue. The Camembert can be topped with nuts and arranged on a baking sheet several hours ahead so that all that is necessary is to bake the cheese for a few minutes before serving it.

AVOCADO-GOAT CHEESE SPREAD

2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted and cut into chunks

4 ounces cream cheese

4 ounces creamy chevre (goat) cheese

2 1/2 tablespoons lime juice

1 tablespoon minced shallots

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons diced seeded jalapeno chiles, plus up to 1 teaspoon extra, if desired

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Garnishes of toasted pita wedges, cherry or grape tomatoes, julienned strips of sweet red bell peppers or skewered cooked shrimp (see Note)

Process avocados, cream cheese and goat cheese in food processor, pulsing, until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Add lime juice, shallots, garlic, cumin, salt, 2 teaspoons jalapeno chiles and cilantro and process to mix well, 20 to 30 seconds more. Taste mixture and add more jalapenos for hotter, spicier taste.

Mound mixture in nonreactive serving bowl. (Spread can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

To serve, place bowl on serving platter and surround with pita wedges, tomatoes, sweet bell peppers or shrimp. Serve immediately. Makes 2 cups dip, enough to serve 8 to 10.

Note: This spread is also delicious served surrounded with tortilla chips. Try using white, yellow and blue corn tortillas for visual appeal.

BAKED CAMEMBERT WITH HONEY-GLAZED WALNUTS AND ALMONDS

1/4 cup whole unblanched almonds

1/4 cup walnut halves

1 (8-ounce) round Camembert

1 1/2 tablespoons honey

2 very generous pinches cayenne pepper

2 tart crisp apples or 2 ripe but slightly firm pears, cleaned, halved and cut into thin wedges

Spread nuts evenly on rimmed baking sheet. Bake on center rack at 350 degrees until toasted, 5 to 6 minutes. Watch carefully as nuts can burn easily. Remove and cool.

Arrange Camembert on foil-lined baking sheet. Spread nuts on top of cheese and drizzle with honey. Sprinkle with cayenne. (Cheese can be prepared 4 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Bake cheese on center rack at 350 degrees until softened and warm but not bursting, 6 to 8 minutes. Watch carefully. Remove and cool 3 to 4 minutes. Lift cheese on foil to serving plate. Cut away and discard excess foil. Surround with apple or pear wedges. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of ``American Favorites,`` Chapters.)

(c) 2000, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Betty Rosbottom