SEDUCED BY A PARISIAN SPECIALTY

Although most visitors to Paris put sightseeing, museum expeditions and boat trips down the Seine at the top of their list, my priorities when in France`s capital are always related to food.

Before leaving home, I e-mail, fax or phone to make reservations in interesting restaurants. I did this again before a holiday trip there a few months ago. These eating forays are research, and I love to sample the new and unusual creations of talented French chefs and then try to reproduce them in my own kitchen to share with you.

At L`O a la Bouche, a small, unpretentious place on the Left Bank, I ordered a saddle of rabbit stuffed with spinach and served with wedges of polenta studded with prunes, all napped with a light mustard sauce. It was one of the best dishes I tried during our stay. With each mouthful I became more seduced by the exquisite pairing of flavors. The rabbit, succulent and tender, was delicious with the rich, golden polenta flecked with dark, sweet prunes. In the States, I decided to replace the rabbit, which is not readily available, with pork fillets and simplified the preparation by omitting the spinach filling. But I cooked the polenta with the prunes exactly as I remembered it. After sauteing myriad slices of pork rubbed with garlic and rosemary and making many variations of polenta with prunes, I finally arrived at a winning version.

The pork was an admirable substitute for the rabbit, and the polenta was quite close to the Parisian original. And, much to my delight, I discovered that this main course could be assembled fairly quickly, making it a fine centerpiece for a winter dinner party. You could serve the pork and polenta with tender green beans (that was the side dish that accompanied the rabbit in Paris) and follow with a salad of spinach and Belgian endive in a refreshing citrus dressing. A warm apple or pear tart offered with scoops of vanilla ice cream would make a delectable dessert.

PAN-SAUTEED PORK FILLET WITH POLENTA WITH PRUNES Polenta: 12 medium pitted prunes, halved lengthwise About 3 cups chicken stock 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided, plus little extra for pan 2/3 cup yellow cornmeal Kosher salt Pork: 2 (14- to 16-ounce) pork tenderloins, trimmed of all excess fat 4 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper 4 medium garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1/4 cup olive oil, plus extra for sauteing pork 1/2 cup red wine 1 cup reduced-sodium chicken stock 1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/2 to 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 8 fresh rosemary sprigs, for garnish, optional To prepare Polenta, place prunes in small bowl.

Heat 1/2 cup chicken stock until hot and pour over prunes. Soak to soften, 5 to 6 minutes. Prunes should be soft but not mushy. Strain prunes, reserving soaking liquid. Scatter prunes over bottom of generously buttered 9-inch pie plate. Pour reserved liquid into 4-cup or bigger measuring cup. Add enough remaining stock to make 2 1/2 cups.

Place measured stock in medium heavy saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to boil.

Gradually add cornmeal in fine stream, whisking constantly until mixture is quite thick, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in salt to taste and 1 tablespoon butter. Immediately pour mixture over prunes in pie plate. Then, using metal spatula or table knife, smooth top evenly. Cool completely until polenta is quite firm. Cut into 8 wedges and transfer to aluminum-foil-lined baking sheet. Dot slices with remaining butter.

(Polenta can be prepared day ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and bring to room temperature before proceeding with recipe.)

To finish, place polenta on middle rack and bake, uncovered, at 350 degrees until hot, about 10 minutes.

To prepare Pork, slice each fillet on the diagonal into 8 slices, about 1/2 inch thick. (Tail portions will be thinner.) Combine crushed rosemary, salt, pepper, garlic and 1/4 cup oil in bowl and crush with pestle or fork to blend garlic into seasonings. Brush both sides of pork with mixture. Place in nonreactive pan or dish to marinate 30 minutes.

Add enough oil to coat bottom of large heavy skillet and place over medium-high heat. When hot, add pork in single layer and saute until cooked completely through, about 5 minutes per side. (If necessary, cook pork in 2 batches. Flesh should be white with rosy hue when done.) Remove pork to side dish. Add wine and stock to pan and scape any pan drippings into liquids. Cook until liquids are reduced by a third. Whisk in mustard, then whisk in butter.

Arrange overlapping pork slices on warm serving platter and nap with sauce. Garnish with polenta wedges. Arrange bouquet of rosemary in center. Makes 8 servings.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of ``American Favorites,`` Chapters.) (c) 2001, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate International, a division of Tribune Media Services.

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Author: Betty Rosbottom