A PEAR-FECTLY DELICIOUS FINALE

I love the holiday season because there are countless ways to entertain at this time of the year. My husband and I have hosted trim-the-tree parties where hot mulled wine and savory appetizers were served while guests placed ornaments on a towering tree. On other occasions we`ve invited huge numbers to come for an all-afternoon Christmas open house to enjoy a bountiful cocktail buffet. We`ve planned small sit-down dinners for close friends and have participated in potluck celebrations with our colleagues from work.

But this year I decided to try something new -- a holiday brunch. Short on time because of a hectic schedule, I realized that a brunch could be a simple yet effective way to entertain. To begin the festivities, glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice (purchased from a local market) will be offered, either unadorned or with a splash of Champagne. Appetizers will include smoked peppered trout (another item purchased at a nearby store) atop crisp apple wedges and bowls of toasted whole almonds.

For the entree, I`ve chosen a favorite gratin of eggs, leeks and shiitake mushrooms seasoned with rosemary and grated Parmesan cheese. The main course will be complemented by mustard-glazed slices of Canadian bacon, a watercress and fennel salad and an array of bakery-bought country breads accompanied by jams and butter.

The dessert, however, will be the meal`s piece de resistance. For several weeks I have been working on a new recipe for Cranberry and Wine-Glazed Poached Pears, and, after many revisions, I am delighted with the resulting dish. I poached whole peeled pears in red wine, sugar and water and added the zest and juice of a lemon for tartness and a cinnamon stick for a subtle spicy note.

After the pears were tender, I removed some of the sweet poaching liquid and cooked fresh cranberries in it for a few minutes. The pears, a rich, deep, wine color when done, are served warm, napped generously with the cranberry wine glaze and accompanied by scoops of vanilla ice cream.

These glistening pears make a striking presentation and look complicated to prepare, but the truth is they are easy to assemble and can even be made two days ahead. A recipe yields six servings, but can be increased for larger groups.

And, although this dish is an excellent finale for a brunch, it would be equally tempting to end a dinner menu. In fact, I like these pears so much that I am considering serving them for dessert on Christmas day.

CRANBERRY AND WINE-GLAZED POACHED PEARS

3 cups dry red wine

1 1/2 cups water

1 large lemon, grated to yield 1 teaspoon zest and juiced to yield 3 tablespoons juice

1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 (3- to 4-inch) cinnamon stick

6 pears, slightly underripe (Bartlett or Bosc work well)

1 1/2 cups cranberries, rinsed and picked over

1 quart best-quality vanilla ice cream

Mint sprigs for garnish, optional

Combine wine, water, lemon zest and juice, sugar and cinnamon stick in large pot (with lid). Stir well to mix. Place pot over medium-high heat.

While mixture heats, prepare pears. Peel pears, leaving stems on. Cut slice from bottom of each pear so it will stand up without wobbling. When poaching liquid comes to simmer, add pears. Return to simmer, then lower heat and cook, covered, until pears are tender when pierced with knife, 30 to 40 minutes or longer. (Poaching time will depend on ripeness of pears. Riper ones will cook in less time, while harder ones will take longer.)

When pears are done, remove pot from heat. Remove 1 cup poaching liquid and place in medium saucepan and set aside. (Pears can be poached 2 days ahead. Let pears rest in remaining liquid until cool. Then cover and refrigerate. Reheat by simmering until warm, 10 to 15 minutes.)

To prepare cranberry glaze, add cranberries to 1 cup poaching liquid in saucepan and cook over medium heat until berries pop and mixture is just syrupy, 4 to 5 minutes. (Cranberry glaze can be made 2 days ahead. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat over medium heat, stirring, until warm.)

To serve, arrange warm pear on dessert plate. Place scoop of ice cream next to it. Ladle pear and ice cream generously with warm cranberry glaze. Garnish with mint sprig. Repeat with remaining pears. Makes 6 servings.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of ``American Favorites,`` Chapters.)

(c) 2000, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate International, a division of Tribune Media Services.

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Author: Betty Rosbottom