THAT`S ENTERTAINING: WHEN THE FIRST FROST ARRIVES

Cold weather greeted me recently when I arrived home from a week of teaching cooking in the warmth of southwestern France, and the change of climate affected my appetite. All of a sudden, I craved old-fashioned comfort food. Nothing tastes better on a chilly day than one of those satisfying dishes like homemade meat loaf with mashed potatoes, rich dark pot roast and rice napped with pan gravy or flaky chicken pot pie. I remember those foods from my childhood and love to cook them for friends and family as the first frost arrives.

Several days ago I prepared a slightly different version of such a dish that my mother often made. Her slowly braised pork chops and onions covered in delicious gravy were always among my favorites, but my family was equally pleased with my new variation. I browned boneless pork chops and then removed them from the skillet while I sauteed sliced onions with red cabbage and apples. A few tablespoons of balsamic vinegar and a little sugar were the only seasonings included. Then I simmered the chops, vegetables and apples in red wine and chicken stock for over an hour until the meat was fork-tender and the cabbage wilted. Finally, I stirred in some raisins and cooked the dish a few minutes more so that their sweetness would permeate the mixture.

My husband and I ate this hearty main course on two consecutive nights so I could get the flavors balanced, and now it`s ready to be added to my fall repertoire for casual dinner parties or buffets. It`s an ideal entree to serve for guests because it improves in taste when made a day ahead.

Butter-laced mashed potatoes or a salad of mixed greens garnished with toasted walnuts and thin shavings of Gruyere cheese would be fine accompaniments. And to end the meal you could serve such quintessential comfort desserts as gingerbread with vanilla ice cream and warm caramel sauce or dark chocolate custard with a dollop of whipped cream.

PORK CHOPS BRAISED IN RED WINE WITH CABBAGE AND APPLES

6 center cut, 1-inch-thick boneless pork chops (2 1/4 to 2 1/2 pounds total weight)

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup flour

3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more if needed

1 medium onion (8 ounces), thinly sliced

2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 (2 1/2-pound) head red cabbage, halved, cored and cut into 1/2-inch-wide strips

3 tart apples (1 1/2 pounds), such as Cortlands, Granny Smiths or Winesaps, peeled, halved, cored and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sugar, plus more if needed

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 cups dry red wine

2 cups reduced-sodium chicken stock

1/2 cup raisins

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped parsley, preferably flat leaf

Trim and discard excess fat from chops. Generously salt and pepper both sides. Spread flour on dinner plate and dredge each chop in it.

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in large, heavy nonreactive skillet (with lid) over medium-high heat. When hot, add chops and cook until rich golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn and cook 3 to 4 minutes until browned on other side. Remove from skillet and set aside.

If needed, add more oil to skillet to film bottom. Add onion and cook, stirring, until lightly browned and softened, about 3 minutes. Add butter and when melted, add cabbage and apples and cook, stirring, until cabbage has wilted somewhat, 6 to 8 minutes. Season with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon sugar and vinegar over cabbage and apples and stir to mix. Pour in wine and stock.

Nestle pork chops in cabbage and bring liquids to simmer. Lower heat, cover and cook 1 hour. Remove lid and stir in raisins. Raise heat to medium and cook, uncovered, until most of liquid in skillet has evaporated, 20 to 30 minutes more. Taste and season with more salt and pepper as needed and with more sugar, if desired. (Dish can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat over low heat, stirring. Or transfer to baking dish, cover with foil and bake on center shelf of oven at 350 degrees until hot, 20 to 30 minutes.)

To serve, arrange chops and cabbage on serving platter. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings of 1 chop each.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of ``American Favorites,`` Chapters.)

(c) 2000, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Betty Rosbottom