FILET MIGNON IN MINUTES

This time of year brings back delicious memories of Paris in the springtime. During the late 1970s and early `80s, my Sundays typically started with a leisurely stroll to our picturesque neighborhood outdoor market at rue Cler near the Eiffel Tower.

``Monsieur l`ayatollah,`` the carrot vendor would shout to greet my husband, joking about Yakir`s Middle Eastern looks. ``Voulez-vous des belles carottes aujourd`hui?`` We usually chose some of his tempting carrots and a few shallots as well.

At another stand we would pick up a few stalks of white asparagus, then on to the herb lady, who would gently hand us bunches of thyme, tarragon and flat-leaf parsley from her basket. Next door was the fromagerie, where we would select one or two from the amazing array of enticing French cheeses.

Finally, at the boucherie, we would admire the beautifully displayed meats. ``What would you like to cook today?`` the butcher would ask, then advise us on preparing the cut we chose. Occasionally, when we wanted to splurge, we bought filet mignon. Few foods say ``celebrate`` like this cut of meat. It`s so delicate that it almost melts in your mouth. No wonder it`s also called tenderloin.

Pushing our overfilled two-wheeled cart and carrying a few extra bundles that wouldn`t fit, we would walk home, trying not to finish the just-baked baguette from the boulangerie. Then it was time to fix our midday repast; there`s nothing like a visit to the market to whet your appetite.

Rather than grilling or broiling the steak, I would turn it into a saute. Briefly sauteing the beef in cubes can cook it more rapidly than grilling, especially if the steaks are thick. This technique has its basis in classic entrees like beef stroganoff, but my springtime saute was easier and lighter.

At cooking school I had learned another advantage of the saute -- it produces tasty juices that can form the flavor base of a quick pan sauce. For our tenderloin, I would opt for a red Bordeaux to make the sauce; it marries well with the taste of beef broth in the skillet and as the table wine.

Today, this type of entree is still my favorite kind of fast feast -- speedily prepared, but slowly savored.

Instead of preparing our vegetables separately, I usually warmed them quickly in the pan after I had sauteed the meat so they gained flavor from the sauce and enhanced it as well. Mushrooms of any type are perfect partners for the beef and the wine. For a colorful saute, I might add asparagus or peas. Tossed with the beef cubes, the vegetables form an attractive medley, somewhat like a stew, but with a much fresher look and character.

Serving is a snap; my entree is ready in a single skillet. Even in the minuscule kitchen area of our tiny Parisian studio, our fresh-from-the-market meal came together in no time.

When Yakir is in the mood for cooking, he often takes the route of the quick steak saute. Instead of the French wine sauce, he might spice it up with his mother`s seasonings -- the Yemenite trio of cumin, turmeric and plenty of black pepper.

Food fashions have been fluctuating enormously when it comes to beef. For decades it was a daily menu item in many homes, then suddenly some people completely stopped eating it. I favor moderation with meat. When I serve it, I try to keep portions reasonable, the way I learned in Paris; French chef manuals call for steaks to weigh only five ounces. If you tend to think of one steak per serving, the tenderloin is a fine choice because it`s small. A steak-and-veggie saute is ideal, as the plate is generously graced with vegetables.

To complete our spring menu, we like baby greens moistened lightly with vinaigrette and sprinkled with toasted walnuts and perhaps a little crumbled Roquefort cheese. With the saute, we eat crusty fresh baguettes, and for a simple seasonal finale, sweet strawberries on their own or, when we`re feeling indulgent, crowned with creme fraiche.

As we enjoy this weekend dinner, we reminisce about our wonderful years in France, but we also celebrate the bounty around us. Food shopping in our Los Angeles neighborhood is delightful, too. The farmers` market in nearby Calabasas is a short drive away. White asparagus is rare but the green type is just as tasty; besides, its color enlivens the saute. As for fresh thyme and tarragon, we don`t need to buy them -- we pick them from our garden.

BEEF TENDERLOIN WITH MUSHROOMS, ASPARAGUS AND RED WINE

For this easy and tasty dish, the sauteed mushrooms simmer in a quick red wine pan sauce with a touch of thyme. It is inspired by an entree we enjoyed one summer at a small restaurant in the Franche Comte area of France near the Alps, where they used wild mushrooms -- cepes (porcini) and local mushrooms called mousserons -- and paired them with green beans.

In spring I opt for slim asparagus, which cook fast and need no peeling, and prepare them by the French technique of blanching -- cooking them briefly in an uncovered pan of boiling salted water to keep the color vivid. To save on clean-up time, I use the same skillet to cook the asparagus, then to saute the steak.

This recipe also works well with other tender steaks, such as rib eye, porterhouse and T-bone. To vary the entree, you can use other colorful vegetables, like green beans, sugar snap peas or baby carrots. For a spicy saute, see the variation.

10 to 12 ounces thin asparagus spears (1 small bunch), each trimmed and cut into 3 pieces

Salt

1 to 2 tablespoons oil

2 small beef tenderloin steaks (total about 10 ounces), fat trimmed, meat cut into 1-inch cubes

Freshly ground pepper

1 1/2 cups sliced mushrooms (about half a 6-ounce package)

1/3 cup dry red wine such as Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon

1 sprig fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried

1/3 cup beef or chicken broth

1 to 2 tablespoons butter, cut into 2 to 4 small pieces, optional

Pour enough water into deep skillet or saute pan to easily cover asparagus and bring to boil. Add salt and asparagus and boil, uncovered, 2 minutes or until barely tender when pierced with sharp knife. Drain, rinse with cold water and drain.

Heat oil in large heavy nonstick skillet or saute pan. Add beef cubes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and saute beef, shaking pan often, over high heat 2 minutes, then over medium-high heat 1 minute or until browned but still medium-rare inside. Cut a piece to check. Remove meat to plate with slotted spoon.

Add mushrooms to pan and saute over medium heat about 2 minutes or until lightly browned. With slotted spoon, transfer about half of mushrooms to plate of beef. Add wine and thyme to pan and bring to boil. Add broth and boil 2 minutes or until only 3 to 4 tablespoons of liquid remain. Return asparagus to skillet. Add beef and mushrooms with any juices on plate and warm over medium-low heat until heated through. Discard thyme sprig. If you like, add butter and stir just until blended in. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve hot. Makes 2 servings.

Variation: Spicy Steak Saute: After sauteing beef cubes for 2 minutes, sprinkle with 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin and 1/4 teaspoon turmeric and continue sauteing about 1 minute or until browned but still medium-rare inside. Double amount of broth and omit the wine. Season finished dish generously with freshly ground pepper.

(Faye Levy is the author of the three-volume ``Fresh From France`` cookbook series, Dutton, and of ``1,000 Jewish Recipes,`` HungryMinds.)

(c) 2001, Faye Levy. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate International, a division of Tribune Media Services.

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Author: Faye Levy