TREATS FOR THE WELCOME PAUSE

Most people approach coffee or tea and an accompanying treat in one of a few ways. Either you are a sip-and-nibble sort, a bite-and-gulp variety, or an eat-first, wash-it-all-down-later type.

Where we all converge is in the agreement that the ritual of a coffee break or tea time makes the mundane marvelous.

Always a welcome pause, there is nothing like the blahs that can make the average coffee or tea break a virtual oasis. Sure, we count on that caffeine hit when we reach for coffee or a pot of tea; it is just as true that either hot, fragrant brew -- along with a little something modestly sweet -- is sheer respite, producing a separate and undeniable buzz of well-being without a prescription.

OK, therapy it`s not, but a coffee break is definitely sociable and civilized, the ``breaking bread of the millennium`` that can make even a dull day bearable. Best of all, it is a ritual that calls for the best in homey -- not decadent -- treats that celebrate the coffee and tea hour.

Perfect-for-dipping biscotti, delicately crumbed scones and miniature cheesecakes are just some delights that are sure to chase any blues away. They`re all easy to make, none are cloyingly sweet or heavily frosted, and they`re wonderful just warm from the oven or sublime even a day or two later. This is the type of baking that is the tandem component to a tea and coffee break, and it is baking that is warmly rooted in the home kitchen.

These sweets are perfect to share with a neighbor or the office coffee klatch, or simply to enjoy once the supper dishes are a memory and the day`s end waits to be treasured. So bake a batch of delicacies and brew a pot, then sit back and anticipate that small endorphin rush. Second cup is on the house.

BUTTERSCOTCH HEATH BAR BISCOTTI

This twice-baked cookie almost needs no introduction. It has become the classic coffeehouse treat. You can use Heath Bar chunks.

3/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup packed golden or light brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 teaspoon butterscotch extract

3 eggs, lightly beaten

3 cups flour

1 3/4 teaspoons baking powder

Dash salt

1 1/2 cups coarsely cut-up Heath Bars

1/2 cup whole pecans

Line large baking sheet with parchment paper.

In mixing bowl, beat butter and sugars together until well blended. Stir in vanilla and butterscotch extracts. Blend in eggs. Mix flour, baking powder and salt together and fold into batter. Fold in candy bar pieces and pecans.

Place batter on baking sheet (batter will be thick and little sticky) and form into 2 logs about 8 inches long, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches across, wetting hands if necessary to shape batter.

Bake at 350 degrees until set, about 25 minutes. Cool thoroughly. Slice into diagonal strips about 3/4 inch wide and place, cut side down, on baking sheet. Bake on one side about 12 minutes. Turn pieces over and bake other side about 5 minutes. Cool well. Makes 3 to 4 dozen biscotti.

Note: Here`s a baker`s trick -- for ultra-thin biscotti that are easily cut, wrap biscotti logs overnight and freeze. Next day, slice as thin as desired and bake the second requisite time to brown.

You can use any brand of chocolate-covered brittle toffee bars. Coarse pieces work better than Heath Bar Chips as they are too small.

SOUR CHERRY AND VANILLA CREAM SCONES

These scones are mouthwatering even if you left the cherries out, but the combination of delicate, buttery scone crumb with bits of sour-sweet scarlet cherries is outstanding.

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 cup cake and pastry flour (or use all all-purpose flour)

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup sugar

2 teaspoons finely minced orange zest

3/4 cup (6 ounces) very cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks

1 egg, lightly beaten

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup buttermilk or orange juice

1 cup dried sour cherries (see Note)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, or milk

Coarse or regular sugar

In large bowl, mix flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar and zest. Cut in butter until you have a grainy, coarse mixture. (Alternatively, in bowl of large food processor, place flours, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar and zest. Place butter chunks on top. Pulse processor to break butter into flour mixture. Then remove mixture to large bowl.)

Make well in center and stir in egg, vanilla and buttermilk. With fork, lightly bring mixture in towards center to combine wet and dry ingredients. When slightly combined, fold in cherries. Blend to form soft, shaggy mass. Turn out onto lightly floured work surface and knead very gently to make soft dough. Pat or shape dough into 10-inch circle. Cut into 4 equal portions. Cut each portion into 3, making a total of 12 wedges.

Line baking sheet with baking parchment. Place scones on sheet. Brush tops with melted butter and sprinkle with little coarse sugar. Bake at 425 degrees until golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Makes 12 to 16 scones.

Note: For extra flaky scones, allow butter-flour mixture to chill overnight or place in freezer 30 minutes before continuing with recipe.

Miniature scones make lovely addition to an afternoon tea tray.

You can substitute coarsely chopped frozen cranberries for dried cherries.

MINIATURE CHEESECAKES

Most of the time a large cheesecake is for a large occasion. These miniature cheesecakes are perfect for the ``little occasions`` and can be frozen like regular muffins.

Crust:

12 small graham cracker squares

3 tablespoons (about) brown sugar

3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted and kept warm

Filling:

1 pound cream cheese, softened

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon flour

3 eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1/4 teaspoon lemon extract

1/4 cup half and half

Topping: powdered sugar, cherry pie topping, melted chocolate, fresh fruit and warmed apricot jam

Line 12-cup muffin tin with paper muffin cups.

To prepare Crust, using sharp metal cookie cutter about 2 1/2 inches in diameter, cut each graham square into circle. Place 1 inside each muffin cup. Mix together brown sugar and cinnamon. Brush each graham bottom with melted butter. Sprinkle each with equal amount of cinnamon-sugar mixture.

To prepare Filling, beat cream cheese with granulated sugar and flour. Blend in eggs, vanilla, lemon extract and half and half. Pour evenly into prepared muffin cups. Bake at 350 degrees until just set, 20 to 24 minutes.

Cool well (or freeze). Dust with powdered sugar or garnish with cherry pie topping, melted chocolate, or fresh fruit and warmed apricot jam as glaze. Makes 12 miniature cheesecakes.

(Marcy Goldman is a Montreal-based pastry chef and baker, and the author of ``A Treasury of Jewish Holiday Baking,`` 1998; ``The Coffee Bistro Baking Book,`` 2000; and hosts the Web site at http://www.betterbaking.com)

(c) 2000, Marcy Goldman. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Marcy Goldman