HERBS AND ERBS

``Scarborough Fair,`` great song. Almost anybody who passed through the `60s or listens to oldies knows the first line, ``Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme.`` Art Garfunkel and Paul Simon wrote good music, but they were herb-challenged. Parsley, chives, rosemary and thyme would have been my top draft picks from a cook`s point of view.

Whether you cook much or not, herbs are a must in the summer. Cereal and ice cream aside, there`s hardly a dish that can`t be improved by the thrust of flavor from a sprinkling of herbs.

If you`re living in modest digs, you may have a space problem. No excuse and not to worry. Herbs are happy campers sitting in flower pots on a windowsill or out on the stoop, jammed into a window box or planted at the side of a yard or garden.

Space is my problem, too. Our townhouse has a miniscule perennial garden. My husband calculated that it`s two-thousandths of an acre. Along one side, I plant herbs. We can never decide whether to call it an ``erb`` hedge or an ``herb`` edge. As an American, I favor ``erb,`` although the Brits pronounce the H.

Herbs aren`t fussy. They can tolerate drought and neglect. About all they need is decent sunlight, occasional pinching back and an occasional drink.

April or May, depending on where you live, is the best time to buy herbs while selection is good and young plants haven`t gone all leggy in the tray.

The following herbs give me the most satisfaction mileage-wise. Your list may include others.

Basil. Basil is a must if you have the space to grow it. Pinch back young plants to encourage bushiness, and add the pinchings to salads or eggs. Tuck big leaves into sandwiches along with, or in place of, lettuce. When you feel a pesto binge coming on, buy basil bunches at the farmers market, because one recipe can wipe out a modest home planting.

Chives. Snippets of chives liven up soups, pasta, veggies, you name it. Chives get bonus points for lavender flowers that look and taste zingy in salads. Never whack off chives like a crew cut. Instead, cut the long strands. Plant this perennial, and it will be one of the first plants to greet you next spring.

Mint. Mint is wonderful in salad, iced tea and Pan-Asian dishes, but will reproduce like, well, never mind. Keep it potted or planted out of the way. Yank out runners.

Oregano. Used mostly in Greek and Italian dishes, it`s good in tomato sauces and salads. Try this quick sauce: Reduce a can of stewed tomatoes with peppers and onions. Add a goodly amount of oregano, rosemary and parsley. Season and serve over or under a good-flavored sauteed fish such as perch.

Parsley, both curly and flat-leaf. Parsley goes with, and improves, almost everything. Be generous and buy a couple of pots.

Rosemary. A better perfume than Chanel. Sprinkle it over lamb, chicken and fish before grilling. It loves anything Italian.

Sage. As for sage, the only downside is that there just aren`t that many recipes that call for those gray-green furry leaves. It has an affinity for veal cooked with white wine. An old Italian trick is to sizzle sage leaves in olive oil, and lift them out. Then saute veal chops in the perfumed oil, deglaze the pan with white wine and serve the chops garnished with the crunchy leaves.

Thyme. Besides adding oomph to sauces, fish and salads, it`s beautiful. Clip a tendril or two to grace an otherwise ordinary-looking dinner plate. Thyme likes to creep and drape, so plant it near an edge or wall.

Lovage, borage, marjoram, dill and lower-profile herbs are at the supermarket when you need them.

DEEP-FRIED SAGE LEAVES

These are a sensational accompaniment to dry classic martinis. To impress your friends, deep-fry a musical quartet -- parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme. The frying requires constant attention at the stove, and the herbs will be snatched up as soon as they are made and salted.

3/4 cup flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

1 egg, separated

Dash sugar

2 tablespoons vodka

1/2 cup cold water

About 30 large fresh sage leaves

Vegetalbe oil or solid vegetable shortening for frying

Salt

Lemon wedges

Make batter by placing flour in bowl. Make well in flour, then add, one at a time, salt, olive oil, egg yolk, sugar, vodka and water, mixing each in thoroughly before adding the next. Stir until batter is smooth. Let stand in cool place about 2 hours. Set aside egg white to add later.

Meanwhile, rinse sage leaves (and other herbs, if used,) and pat dry with paper towels. Heat vegetable oil until very hot. Just before oil is ready for frying, whip egg white until stiff. Fold into batter gently.

Dip each sage leaf into batter and quickly into oil to cook barely 1 minute until light and golden brown all over and very puffy. Remove and drain on paper towels while cooking the rest.

Sprinkle with salt and serve hot, garnished with lemon wedges. Makes 4 to 5 appetizer servings.

(Adapted from a recipe by Giuliano Bugialli.)

ANY-HERB OLIVE OIL BISCUITS

This soft dough can also be dropped from a spoon. The roughly textured drop biscuits will taste just as good while saving a little time and clean-up.

2 cups self-rising flour

2 tablespoons any herb, chopped (such as chives, parsley, basil, etc.)

1/2 cup milk

7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Measure flour into medium bowl. Stir in herb. Make well in center of flour mixture and add milk and olive oil. Stir until blended. Do not overwork dough or biscuits will be tough.

On lightly floured surface, roll dough out to 1/3-inch thickness. Cut into 1 1/2-inch rounds with plain or fluted cookie cutter. Place on greased baking sheet. Bake at 400 degrees 10 minutes until biscuits just begin to turn golden.

(Adapted from ``Entertaining 1-2-3`` by Rozanne Gold; Little, Brown and Company.)

(Marlene Parrish is a food writer based in Pittsburgh.)

(c) 2000, Marlene Parrish. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Marlene Parrish