DANGER! ENZYMES AHEAD!

Enzymes are proteins in all plant and animal tissues that speed up chemical reactions. A lot of enzymes` work is helpful -- ripening fruit, tenderizing meat -- and they are essential in making bread, beer, wine and cheese.

However, there are times that enzymes are troublemakers for cooks. They can prevent gelatin from setting and turn custards to soup. These little rascals also discolor cut or bruised fruit to an unappealing brown.

Cooks use heat to inactivate the trouble-causing enzymes in gelatin and custards. Mild acids, especially ascorbic acid (vitamin C) are great to prevent cut fruit from browning. Some cooks squeeze a little lemon juice on the cut surfaces, but I prefer orange juice, which is just as effective but sweeter and milder and does not interfere with the taste of the fruit.

The gelatin problem is much more widespread than you might think. Gelatin is protein made by processing collagen from animals. Some of the same enzymes that break apart muscle and collagen to tenderize meats also attack gelatin.

Experienced cooks know that raw pineapple has an enzyme that attacks gelatin and prevents it from setting. But few know that kiwi, honeydew, figs and papayas also have enzymes that can wreck gelatin.

I had read about all of these fruits, so I was prepared to be alert to any of them in gelatin molds. I had seen kiwi slices that were decorating a ham glazed with aspic actually sink into the aspic as they destroyed the gelatin under each slice!

Just when I was feeling confident and enzyme-aware, I encountered a culprit that was totally new to me. My friend Jeanne Jones, who writes excellent low-fat cookbooks, called one day: ``Shirley, what on earth could be in carrots to cause them to wreck my orange gelatin mold?``

We had both used grated carrots in gelatin molds before. Are they growing some new strange strains of carrots? What could be happening? I just couldn`t believe that carrots could do it. So, I was asking Jeanne about containers, about the orange gelatin, and the amount and kind of liquid. I just felt the problem had to be something other than the carrots. Then she remembered that she did have a teaspoon of finely minced ginger in the mixture. Aha!

Sure enough, when I went to the literature on ginger, I found that it contains a single enzyme that attacks both muscle fiber and gelatin. It suddenly dawned on me -- no wonder Chinese chefs add minced ginger when marinating meats. It both flavors and tenderizes. What a great idea!

I had to try it immediately, so I marinated thin strips of beef for a beef and broccoli stir-fry with ginger and a little Sherry. It was excellent. So I moved on to chicken and loved it in my Gin and Ginger Tender Chicken Stir-Fry.

On some occasion in my distant past, I was at a party with a member of the British parliament. I was impressed to meet an ``MP,`` as they called him. And when we were asked for our beverage of choice, I just loved hearing his crisp accent as he ordered a ``Gin and Ginger.`` I think that`s gin and ginger ale which I did not quite have the nerve to try, but I did like the sound. I immediately thought of it as a title for my Gin and Ginger Tender Chicken Stir-Fry.

I love all the contrasts in this dish -- the mild chicken and lettuce along with the nip of the chile and ginger. And, I always adore fruit with meats to add a burst of juiciness. Of course, the chicken is wonderfully tender from the ginger and buttermilk marinade.

GIN AND GINGER TENDER CHICKEN STIR-FRY

This is a dish of magnificent contrasts -- the texture of the lettuce against the soft chicken, the slight heat of the chile in the sauce against the delicate flavors of lettuce and chicken, and the sudden juiciness of the grapes. The lettuce, grapes, green onion and cilantro add a colorful touch to the white chicken.

What this recipe shows is that minced ginger acts as a tenderizer in the marinade. Intensely flavored ingredients like the chile and ginger give great taste to a low-fat dish. The small amount of gin dissolves and releases alcohol-soluble flavor components.

Chicken:

6 boneless chicken breast halves, well trimmed

3 tablespoons finely minced ginger root

1/4 teaspoon cayenne

About 1/2 cup buttermilk

Stir-Fry:

1 small head romaine lettuce, shredded

3 medium shallots, chopped

2 tablespoons finely minced ginger root

1 small serrano chile, seeds included, thinly sliced crosswise

3 tablespoons mild olive oil

1/3 cup gin

1 1/2 cups seedless red or black grapes

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 teaspoon instant chicken bouillon

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon cornstarch, stirred into 1/2 cup chicken stock

5 green onions, greens included, sliced into rings

1/2 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped, optional

To prepare Chicken, slice each breast across grain into 4 slices. Place chicken in small bowl. Rub ginger root into chicken. Sprinkle with cayenne and add just enough buttermilk to barely cover. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate overnight in refrigerator.

To prepare Stir-Fry, spread shredded lettuce on serving platter and set aside.

Rinse chicken, drain well and pat dry.

In large skillet or wok over high heat, cook shallots, ginger root and chile in oil, stirring constantly. Add chicken and stir and cook briefly, 1 to 2 minutes only. Add gin and cover quickly to let steam 1 minute. Immediately remove chicken with slotted spoon and spread over lettuce.

Add grapes to skillet and stir-fry just to warm, less than 1 minute. Remove with slotted spoon and spread over chicken. Add thyme to skillet and stir, then add chicken stock and return to heat. Stir well to loosen any browned bits. Stir in instant bouillon and sugar.

Stir in cornstarch mixture and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened. Pour immediately over chicken. Garnish with green onions and cilantro. Serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

(Food scientist Shirley O. Corriher is the author of ``CookWise,`` William Morrow, 1997.)

(c) 2000, Shirley O. Corriher. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Shirley O. Corriher