CABBAGE GETS CREAMED

In the past, I always considered cooked cabbage a homey, unpretentious vegetable that was best used for cool-weather menus. However, for the past few years my local markets have been stocking more varieties of this vegetable than just the common, round, green heads, and as a result I've learned to prepare all manner of cabbages in interesting ways during all seasons of the year.

Cabbages fall into two categories: those that are round and form hearts and those that are elongated. The omnipresent green cabbages, the ones with the tightly packed, waxy leaves, fall in the first class along with the Savoys, which are distinguished by their attractive ruffled leaves. Red cabbages with their deep wine-colored leaves also belong to this genre. Napas, or Chinese cabbages, are the most readily available of the tall, slender types. (Bok choy is also a Chinese cabbage, but it belongs to another species.)

Last week I couldn't resist buying several beautiful Savoy cabbages while shopping. I wasn't certain how I would use them, but at home an idea came to mind. I removed some pretty outer leaves and saved them for a garnish. Then I halved the heads and cut them into strips, which I quickly sauteed in butter until wilted. Next, I added cream and chicken stock to the pan and cooked the cabbage until just crisp tender. Finally, I stirred some spring peas into the skillet and cooked them a few minutes.

For serving, I mounded the vegetables in individual portions on the reserved leaves. A sprinkling of chopped chives made a fine garnish. The cooked cabbage and peas are not laden with a thick, heavy sauce; rather, the vegetables are barely coated with cream, which provides a hint of sweetness.

I liked this simple, yet elegant cabbage creation so much that I decided it would make a fine side dish for a spring dinner party. It was delicious served with thyme-rubbed broiled lamb chops and small red skin potatoes tossed in butter, and would be equally tempting paired with grilled salmon fillets or with a roasted chicken.

CREAMED SAVOY CABBAGE AND PEAS

2 (1 1/4-pound) heads Savoy cabbage with several attractive outer leaves

1/4 cup unsalted butter, plus more if needed

1/3 cup whipping cream

1/3 cup low-sodium chicken stock

2 cups fresh shelled peas or 1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas, thawed (see Note)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon chopped chives or flat-leaf parsley

Remove and reserve 3 attractive leaves from each head of cabbage. Halve each cabbage lengthwise through base and cut out and discard tough inner cores. Cut each half, lengthwise, into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Cut off and discard any tough white veins in strips. (You should have about 12 cups cabbage.)

Heat butter in large heavy skillet (with lid) over medium heat. When hot, add cabbage and saute, stirring constantly, until wilted, 5 to 6 minutes. If needed, add a little extra butter so that cabbage does not brown.

Pour in cream and stock. Reduce heat and cook, covered, 5 minutes, stirring several times to prevent cabbage from sticking. Remove lid and add peas. Cook, stirring, until peas are tender, 1 to 2 minutes more. All liquids should be absorbed and cabbage should be tender but still have a little crispness. Cook, stirring, few minutes more if necessary.

Season with 1 teaspoon salt, or more if needed. (Cabbage and peas can be prepared 30 minutes ahead. Leave at cool room temperature and reheat before serving.)

To serve, arrange 6 reserved cabbage leaves on serving plate. Mound some cabbage and peas in each and sprinkle each portion with some chives. Makes 6 servings.

Note: If fresh peas are not available, frozen peas, which have been thawed and patted dry, can be substituted. However, frozen peas, even thawed and dried, will sometimes add extra moisture to the mixture.

(Betty Rosbottom is a cooking school director and author of ``American Favorites,'' Chapters.)

(c) 2000, Betty Rosbottom. Distributed by the Los Angeles Times Syndicate.

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Author: Betty Rosbottom