Ringing in the real new millennium

Now that the real new millennium is just around the corner, it`s not too early to make plans for the appropriate celebratory beverage. That would be Champagne or one of the top sparkling wines from California, where there are a handful of producers committed to making superb methode champenoise. That would be sparkling wine in the Champagne method, which at its most basic level means sparkling wine fermented in the bottle instead of a big vat.

I`ve recommended a number of bubbly over the past couple of months, and more new releases keep rolling in as the witching hour nears. Unlike last year, when there was a scare about shortages, no one doubts this time around that there will be ample supply - much of it left over from last year`s premature millennium bash, which had more fizzle than fizz.

There is plenty of excellent Champagne and California sparkling wine to go around, and there seems to be less of the price gouging that marred the last New Year`s celebration and drove many would-be participants away from the extravagant venues and into private home. No matter where you celebrate, however, there is no need to do so with a bottle of dull sparkling. Read on.WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value.

Exceptional:

Piper Heidsieck Rare 1990, Champagne ($70), is among the great values in luxury Champagne. It may not have the power of some of the more renowned (and more expensive) prestige cuvee Champagnes, but delicacy can be an asset when a wine is exceptionally complex. The vintage was remarkable, and it shows.

Bollinger 1992 Grand Annee, Champagne ($90), has the weight, power and complexity connoisseurs prize in a prestige cuvee. The vintage was not even close to being one of the best in Champagne, but among the prestige cuvee wines Bollinger`s Grand Annee, like the Piper Heidsieck Rare, represents something of a good value. Consumers should note this is a heavier, more oxidized style than some might prefer.

Domaine Carneros 1994 Le Reve, Carneros ($55), is a rarity, a superb sparkling wine that is produced entirely from white grapes (92 percent chardonnay, 8 percent pinot blanc). That`s not surprising considering Domaine Carneros is owned by Taittinger, which produces perhaps the finest chardonnay-based Champagne in the world. This is among the handful of California sparkling wines that can compete side-by-side with top Champagnes.

Mumm Cuvee Napa 1996 DVX, Napa Valley ($50) is a tremendous sparkling wine that possibly could have been better with another year or two on the yeast before disgorgement, but that`s simply a personal preference. It is the winemaker`s decision at Mumm to accentuate the beauty and complexity of his Napa Valley fruit, and it`s a job well done.

Robert Mondavi Winery 1998 Reserve Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($36), is a top effort from a vintage that was more kind to the white wines than the reds. Of course, the Robert Mondavi Winery is most renowned for its cabernet sauvignon, but the reserve chardonnay often is its equal.

Very Good:

Dry Creek Vineyard 1998 Old Vines Zinfandel, Sonoma County ($18.50), is a solid effort from a difficult vintage. Not as rich and jammy as the exceptional 1997, it nevertheless has plenty of the ripe raspberry and blackberry aromas and a hint of the spice that aficionados adore about Sonoma County zin.

Iron Horse 1999 Cuvee R, Alexander Valley ($19), got the full-blown oak barrel treatment, which I generally dislike, but it works in this unusual blend of sauvignon blanc (80 percent) and viognier (20 percent). This is a rich, mouth-coating white wine that has the aroma of what winemaker Forrest Tancer calls white blossom. Very easy to drink.

Livio Falluga 1997 Merlot, Italy ($21), is one of the world`s best-kept wine secrets. Some of my favorite merlot is grown in northern Italy`s Friuli district, and Livio Falluga is among the best. This wine has outstanding structure and balance. It`s produced more in the elegant style of Bordeaux rather than the fruit-forward manner of a California merlot.

Good Value:

Kunde 1999 Magnolia Lane Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma Valley ($13), continues to be one of the most interesting sauvignon blancs produced in California. The flavors are on the melon and tropical-fruit side, but a splash of viognier in the blend contributes a floral nuance and elements of stone fruits. The rest of the blend is a traditional white Bordeaux cepage of sauvignon blanc and semillon. Winemaker David Noyes kindly didn`t smother this beauty in oak.

Georges Duboeuf 1999 Saint-Veran, France ($10.99), could be my everyday house white wine. It`s crisp, well-balanced and is interesting enough to pair up with a variety of light meals, particularly grilled fish.

Spirit of the Week:

Herradura "Silver" Natural and Sauza "Hornitos" Reposado are excellent examples of two different styles of tequila for those who would be inclined to step up into the 100-percent agave (the plant tequila is made from) category for just a few dollars more than one would pay for lesser tequilas. The Herradura Silver is subtle and spicy, the Sauza Hornitos a bit heavier and darker in color because the spirit has been "rested" briefly in wooden casks, hence the term reposado. Each retails for about $20.

The reason for pouring 100-percent agave tequila is simple: more flavor, better taste.

Serving suggestion: It`s often said that mediocre spirits should be used to make a margarita because they will be blended and no one will ever know. Wrong. Better ingredients produce a better margarita. My home recipe is straightforward and easy. Fill a tumbler with ice, and pour it two-thirds full with a premium 100-percent agave tequila. Add a splash of Grand Marnier and squeeze in one fresh lime. Shake, don`t stir. If the taste is sharp or bitter, add more Grand Marnier. If it`s too sweet, add more lime to taste.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley