Dining well in California wine country

HEALDSBURG, Calif. - Here in the center of this California village is the most important town square in the California wine country. The buzz on a recent summer afternoon: an early harvest and Charlie Palmer, the ubiquitous New York restaurateur, who is expanding his culinary empire into a new hotel going up on the western edge of the square.

It seems Palmer must believe what wine connoisseurs have known for some time, that the heartbeat of California wine pulses from the center of this diverse viticultural mecca. Stand in the center of the square and cast a gaze north and northeast to the Alexander Valley, renowned for its cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

The names of famous wine estates trip off the tongue. Silver Oak. Simi. Jordan. Murphy-Goode. Stonestreet. Geyser Peak. Chateau Souverain. West and northwest lies the Dry Creek Valley, home of some of California`s most prized zinfandels and exceptional cabernet sauvignon. Ferrari-Carano. A. Rafanelli. Dry Creek Vineyards. Fritz. Preston. Michel-Schlumberger. Turn to the southwest and face the Russian River Valley, with its rich trove of pinot noir and chardonnay producers. Rochioli. Dehlinger. Williams Selyem. Gary Farrell. De Loach. Sonoma-Cutrer.

Like the spokes of a wheel, the great appellations of Sonoma County shoot out from the center of Healdsburg. Soon the village will be teeming with wine enthusiasts drawn by the sights and sounds of harvest. The best restaurants will pack them in and the most charming and romantic bed & breakfast spots will fill to capacity every weekend and most of the days in between.

The wine country traveler must plan ahead for both a comfortable and multidimensional wine country experience. That would be the wine country dining experience. The following suggestions are merely a few of my favorite spots to dine and two exquisite places to stay.

Healdsburg is located 90 minutes north of San Francisco International Airport on U.S. 101.

Santi, 21047 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville. This chic new restaurant opened its doors earlier this year, serving up traditional Italian regional cuisine.

Chefs Thomas Oden and Franco Dunn, both formerly of Jordan winery, perfected their Italian kitchen skills working in some of the finest restaurants in Italy. Extensive wine list. Moderate-to-expensive prices. Phone: (707) 857-1790.

Ravenous, 431 Center St., Healdsburg. This cozy restaurant, recently relocated, is a local institution. Eclectic American cuisine at modest-to-moderate prices. Almost impossible to get near a table without a reservation. Excellent, but small list of local wines. Phone: (707) 431-1302.

Applewood Inn, 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville. Chef Brian Gerritsen took over in the kitchen, following one year as chef de cuisine at La Toque, over in the Napa Valley. He`s taken Applewood, now recognized as one of the top three or four restaurants in Sonoma County, to new heights.

Excellent selection of local wines, particularly from the Russian River. Moderate to expensive. Located on the premises of the bed & breakfast of the same name, Applewood Inn offers superb upscale wine country lodging. Phone: (707) 869-9093.

John Ash & Co., 4330 Barnes Road, Santa Rosa. The great man no longer runs the kitchen at this long-running icon of wine country cuisine, but his inspiration and influence remain. Fresh local ingredients, innovative presentation, impeccable service and a deep wine list keep me coming back to John Ash & Co.

Dining alfresco on the patio on a warm summer day can be a memorable experience. Expensive. Located on the premises of the first-rate Vintner`s Inn. Phone: (707) 527-7687.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Ladoucette 1999 Pouilly Fume, France ($28). This is one of my favorite vintages of Ladoucette Pouilly Fume, one that has excellent intensity of aroma, rivaling the strong aromatics of a good New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but with more elegance and complexity. Flint, with a range of juicy citrus aromas. Rating: 93.

A. Soutiran Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Champagne, France ($45). Positively stunning mouth-feel. The delicate bead delivers a lightness on the palate that is in perfect counterpoint to the lemony complexity and depth of flavor. Rating: 91.

Domaine Marc Tempe 1998 "Priegel" Pinot Blanc, Alsace, France ($25). An extraordinarily rich and complex wine for the price, with excellent persistence of flavor and a toasty hazelnut finish. Rating: 90.

Very Good:

Murphy-Goode 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley ($22). A very nice Alexander Valley cab that outperforms its price. You might not be able to find a better $22 cabernet anywhere. Generous black fruit nuances, notes of dried herbs and a high-toned blueberry characteristic. Rating: 89.

La Poussie 1999 Sancerre, France ($24). The floral and mineral elements initially overpower the fruit elements, but eventually rich stone-fruit aromas emerge and bring complexity to this still very young wine. Rating: 88.

Handley Cellars 2000 Pinot Gris, Anderson Valley ($16). Very much in the rich, full-bodied Alsatian style, the Handley Pinot Gris is concentrated and rich, with a beautiful hint of orange blossom on the nose. Rating: 88.

Good Value:

Handley Cellars 2000 Rose, Anderson Valley ($12). One of the finest California dry rose wines I`ve tasted. Bursting with fresh red fruits, beautifully balanced and with excellent length. Rating: 87.

Glazebrook 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($11.99). All of the good characteristics of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc (varietal character, mineral notes, intense citrus aromas) without going over the top.

Some of the most popular New Zealand sauvignons tend toward vegetal aromas, but the Glazebrook goes the other direction toward tropical fruits. Rating: 87.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK:

Pierre Croizet Caractere Champagne de Cognac, 1er Cru du Cognac, 10 years old ($35) is a mouthful of eau de vie, literally and figuratively. The lengthy time in oak cask has imparted a powerful element of vanilla bean and pineapple that is unique and impressive, though the spirit itself finishes a bit hot.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

For a cool and refreshing dessert to beat the summer heat, douse chilled Moscato d`Asti over fresh berries and leave enough wine to pour a generous glass for yourself.HOT LINK:

www.grapevineweekly.com.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley