California`s Chalone making a comeback

by Robert Whitley | Aug 20, 2001
California`s Chalone making a comeback So many wines, so little time. Choosing between the Argentine malbec, the Australian shiraz and the California zinfandel is the challenge, but the average person can hardly keep up. Wines change, the people making the wines change, and often great leaps of progress go unnoticed because the story remains untold.

This is largely the case at Chalone Vineyard, an icon of California wine located in the rugged mountains east of Soledad in the heart of Monterey County. There was a time, more than a quarter century ago, when the late Dick Graf of Chalone probably exerted more influence over the course of California wine than Robert Mondavi. Any objective critic would have ranked the Chalone chardonnay, produced in a Burgundian style that was radical for its day, among the top five in California. That was true of the pinot noir as well.

Chalone stood out, but Chalone stood alone, isolated from its neighbors in Monterey County. Eventually its remote mountain vineyards were granted their own appellation status, the Chalone American Viticultural Area (AVA). No one is quite sure what happened after that and, in any case, it didn`t happen overnight.

Viticultural and winemaking improvements, many of them inspired by the success of Chalone, swept the California wine industry. Whether it was complacency or arrogance, Chalone didn`t keep up with the changes. By the start of the 1990s, no objective wine critic would have placed either the Chalone chardonnay or pinot noir among the top tier in California. Not that those wines were bad, but they should have been better.

In the major league of serious California chardonnay and pinot noir that Chalone had all but created, it resided near the bottom of the standings. Something was finally done in January of 1998 to reverse the fortunes of Chalone before its reputation suffered irreparable harm.

Dan Karlsen was brought in from Domaine Carneros to replace Michael Michaud as winemaker and general manger at Chalone. Karlsen immediately scrapped Chalone`s reserve wine program, expressing the belief that the Chalone name on the label should be enough to indicate the wine is of reserve quality. But more than that, Karlsen restored the sense of terroir at Chalone.

The wine comes from a unique vineyard site and should express characteristics - brioche, for example, in the chardonnay - that reflect the special terroir of the Chalone appellation. Karlsen often says a great wine must have a balance of fruit and what he calls minerality. Of course, the proof is in the bottle. The 1999 chardonnay reviewed in this week`s Wine Finds is the finest from Chalone in years, an example of the glorious potential of chardonnay in California.

This is a promising development on two fronts. First, it is a clear signal that Chalone is back. Second, it sends the message that Chalone is once again ready to lead. It`s about time.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Excellent:

Chalone 1999 Chardonnay, Chalone ($30) - The "Anything But Chardonnay" crowd will have its hands full dissing this latest chard release from Chalone. On the other hand, it does stand in stark contrast to the overblown chards for which California is infamous.

This chardonnay is what California chardonnay could be, should be, but generally isn`t. It`s complex, flavorful, structured and shows just enough oak nuance to let you know it`s there without getting in the way. Bravo! Rating: 94.

Coto de Imaz 1991 Rioja Gran Reserva, Spain ($29) - The price is nearly as stunning as the wine. Doubled it`s still a bargain. This wine was not impressive at first sip, but developed extraordinary complexity as the bouquet opened over an hour`s time. Pretty aromas of spice, red fruits and vanillin. Ultra-smooth on the palate, exceptional length of finish. Rating: 91.

Kim Crawford 1999 Tane, New Zealand ($30) - Exhibit A in the argument that New Zealand has as much potential for certain red grape varieties as it does for chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. Tane is mostly cabernet franc with a splash of merlot.

Now, everyone knows the Bordeaux varieties do not perform in the cool viticultural areas of New Zealand. Wrong. In the right place, under the right conditions, the results can be smashing. Tane displays bright, lifted red and black fruit characteristics, soft, ripe tannins and a remarkably feathery palate. Rating: 92.

Jade Mountain 1999 La Provencale, California ($16) - If you haven`t caught on to the Rhone revolution in California, this blend of three traditional Rhone Valley (France) grape varieties - mourvedre, grenache and syrah - would be an excellent place to start. It`s lush, rich and mouth-filling. Very high "yum" factor. Rating: 90.

Very Good:

Eberle 2000 "Glenrose Vineyard" Viognier, Paso Robles ($22) - This is a rich, fat, oily viognier with flavors and aromas that aren`t necessarily true to type, but delicious nonetheless: pineapple, tropical fuit and apricot. Full in the mouth, with a long finish. Rating: 88.

Marchesi Antinori 2000 Vermentino, Bolgheri, Italy ($16) - It`s not easy making a name for a white wine in the red-wine culture of Tuscany, but vermentino may succeed where trebbiano, malvasia, pinot grigio and chardonnay have failed.

Vermentino is common in the south of Italy, but not so well-known in Tuscany. This one has a floral/citrus characteristic that is similar to a Spanish albarino, though it lacks the backbone of a good albarino. This is Antinori`s first release of this wine in the United States and it is promising. Rating: 87.

La Poussie 1999 Sancerre Rouge,France ($25) - If you can appreciate delicate aromas and enjoy light-bodied reds that have flavor without being heavy, this pinot noir from Sancerre should accompany your next piece of grilled salmon, a perfect match with its subtle hints of cherry and raspberry. Rating: 87.

Good Value:

R.H. Phillips 1999 Syrah, Dunnigan Hills ($9) - Typical of a warm-climate Syrah, the flavors are mature and jammy, but without losing too much elegance and balance. Nuances of spice and red and black fruits with a back note of toasty oak. Great everyday red for the price. Rating: 83.

Casillero del Diablo 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Chile ($10) - Ripe melon and floral aromatics, clean and crisp with a round, fruity finish. Rating: 80.

R.H. Phillips 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Dunnigan Hills ($8) - Fleshy for a sauvignon blanc, showing plump, juicy stone fruit flavors with hints of hay and fig. Rating: 80.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Ramos Pinto 1996 Late Bottled Vintage Port ($19) has the bright, vivid fruit of youth, but the smooth, velvety texture of a port that has spent additional time in the barrel.

LBVs receive twice the barrel age of a vintage port, which serves to soften the tannins for a more enjoyable wine to drink young. This Ramos Pinto LBV is spicy, packed with plush dark-berry fruit that possesses a seductive dark-cocoa nuance.

SERVING SUGGESTION

I recently came across the perfect summertime intermezzo - Champagne soup. Best of all, it couldn`t be easier to make. Layer a bowl with slices of red grapefruit, melon balls and pour in just enough bubbly - any respectable non-vintage brut sparkling wine will suffice - to cover the grapefruit. Refreshing and palate cleansing. Enjoy.

Hot Link: www.edmundsstjohn.com

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley

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