Ports are more durable than most wines

I got mail:

B. Terkel of California writes: My husband at one time was a collector of fine wines and was especially fond of port. We have moved several times since he owned his wine cellar, therefore the wines have not been "properly" stored, but some he`s tasted have seemed to be quite good. We no longer have a place to store them and are anxious to get rid of them "as is." Would you have any suggestions?

Dear B:

The storage conditions of your collection could well become an issue in any attempt to sell the wines, but a professional will be able to examine the bottles and render an opinion on the condition of the wine inside the bottle.

Wines are more resilient than you might imagine, unless the bottles have been exposed to extreme heat, enormous temperature swings or bright lights or sunshine. Ports are more durable than most wines because they are fortified with a spirit. In fact, the origin of port wine can be traced to British wine traders who fortified port wines to preserve them from spoilage during the sea voyage from Portugal to England.

Selling the wines from your collection is another matter. Unless you find another collector willing to pay fair market value for the wines, expect to have to discount your price to make purchasing the wines attractive to a retailer or restaurateur. Anyone interested in the wines for commercial purposes will need to buy them at a price that allows for a reasonable profit on the resale.

Eileen Divone of New Jersey writes: As a reader of your column, I have enjoyed all your wine comments that inspire us to become more knowledgeable about wines. I have a question and would like your input. My husband and I were given a gift of cabernet sauvignon. I can barely lift it. Anything you can tell us would be of interest.

Dear Eileen:

The wine you described in your letter is a 6-liter bottle of 1992 Silver Oak cabernet sauvignon. Silver Oak is one of the most prized California cabs and has achieved cult status among a throng of wine enthusiasts, many of whom eagerly await Silver Oak`s annual new-release event at the winery`s Napa Valley facility. Silver Oak produces cabernet from Alexander Valley as well as Napa Valley.

You have been given the Alexander Valley cab, which is my personal favorite of the two. Though the 1992 vintage was not one of the better vintages of the 1990s, your huge bottle is quite valuable. It is numbered (121 of 200) and signed by founder Justin Meyer, all of which adds to the value. One retailer in California estimated its worth at $1,200 minimum, perhaps as much as $1,500 if sold at auction.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional

Maison Joseph Drouhin 1999 Clos de Vougeot, France ($75). This rich, powerful Burgundy is a mouthful of wine, an excellent example of the depth and concentration that is typical of this exciting vintage in Burgundy. Despite its power, the Drouhin Clos de Vougeot exhibits the elegance and finesse of a great red Burgundy, one that has the potential to improve in the bottle for years to come. Rating: 92.

Banfi 1996 Brunello di Montalcino, Italy ($54). The vintage produced supple wines with smooth, ripe tannins, Brunellos that could be drunk and appreciated when young. Banfi has excellent fatness in the mouth for a so-called off-vintage. This is a soft, velvety, plump wine that exhibits pleasing aromas of violets, plums, leather and tobacco. A Brunello for today while you wait for the powerful 95s to mature. Rating: 90.

Very Good

Weingartner 1999 Gruner Veltliner "Achleiten" Smaragd, Austria ($20). This gruner is characterized by good fatness in the mouth and layered fruit complexity. Floral notes and aromas of peach and honey in the nose lead you to a beautifully balanced, rich palate of flavors with a long, clean finish. Rating: 89.

Chateau Lagrange 1998 Bordeaux, Saint-Julien ($45). Still evolving, the Lagrange will require some cellar time to reach its full potential. This vintage wasn`t exceptional in Bordeaux, but it produced solid wines of power and complexity across the board. The most frequent criticism of the vintage is a lack of elegance, but time will round out most of the rough edges. Rating: 88.

Good Value

Maddalena Vineyard 1999 Chardonnay, Monterey County ($10). Chardonnay from Monterey County may be the finest in California, and this quality shows up all the way down the line. Full-bodied, rich and complex, a terrific buy at this price. Rating: 85.

Maison Joseph Drouhin 2000 Morgon, France ($12). Morgon is generally one of my favorite Beaujolais crus, and the 2000 Drouhin plays to my bias. This floral Beaujolais has a plump, fleshy feel in the mouth and excellent persistence of flavor. It`s a beautiful food wine and perfect slightly chilled for alfresco dining. Rating: 87.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Delaforce Curious & Ancient acts like a 20-year-old tawny and tastes like a 20-year-old tawny - but with a distinctive element of youth that distinguishes it from other 20-year-old tawny Ports. Curious & Ancient show more dried-fruit character and structure in the mouth and less of the nutty, caramel taste that is typical of a 20-year-old. When in the mood for a lighter, fruitier tawny without sacrificing the complexity of a 20-year-old, Curious & Ancient seems to strike the happy balance.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Stumped over which wine to serve with fried fish? Try an inexpensive California sparkling wine - Gloria Ferrer, Chandon or Mumm Napa Valley - and notice how the bubbles knife right through the cooking oil and refresh and cleanse the palate.

HOT LINK

www.nextwine.com.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley