The many glories of grappa

This happened several years ago, as I was returning to my hotel following a typical multi-course Italian feast at a popular restaurant in Asti, a small city in northern Italy near Turin.

It was late Sunday evening, near 11 p.m., as I meandered through the cobblestone streets and came upon the main piazza in the center of Asti. It was quiet except for the distinct clink of glasses that emerged from a small coffee bar on the piazza. The glow from the cafe was all that illuminated the dark piazza. That dim light was enough to reveal that the sidewalk tables were empty. It appeared as though everyone had gone home for the evening, and the coffee bar seemed to be shutting down for the night.

I wandered over on the off chance that I could coax one last espresso before closing. I noticed the array of hand-blown glass bottles along the back wall of the coffee bar. This was the grappa section. Grappa is the distilled spirit produced from the leftover dregs of winegrapes after they`ve been pressed to make wine. Grappa is said to be a digestive that relieves the feeling of fullness following a big meal. Seemed to be a good idea at the time. So I ordered a grappa along with my espresso, though my previous experiences with grappa had not been very pleasant.

I asked the waiter to choose a good grappa for me, thinking then that using the words good and grappa in the same sentence constituted a classic oxymoron. I took my espresso and grappa at one of the sidewalk tables and began to enjoy the still of the night on this quite desolate piazza. A few minutes had passed when a couple took up a table near me. Soon six friends sat at another table. Then another table filled. And another. By midnight, every table was taken and small clusters of friends lingered throughout the piazza. The quiet evening had erupted into a low roar as the voices from dozens of conversations bounced off the old stone walls fronting the square.

I suddenly realized that I had been caught up in the ambience of friends gathering late at night for conversation, laughter and perhaps a little romance. I noticed my glass of grappa was empty. I had thoroughly enjoyed it and ordered another. Then it hit me. Grappa is meant to be sipped slowly and savored. A small drop on the tip of the tongue goes a long way. Drink grappa quickly and there is only the alcohol. But sip it and slowly roll it to the back or sides of the tongue and complexities emerge, identifiable aromas and flavors that are pleasing to the palate. Fruits, minerals and spices. Chocolate. It wasn`t true that all grappas tasted like jet fuel. This was a world I had not known.

After this epiphany I soon came to appreciate the differences from one grappa to the next. The best grappas were balanced, refined, exquisite. I learned to expect a range of nuances, flavor and color depending on whether or not the grappa had been aged in oak barrels, and that the aromatics and palate of flavors vary with the grape.

A grappa made from moscato is floral in the nose, while one made from sangiovese or nebbiolo can be earthy or smell of black fruits. The famous Nonino Picolit, made from a grape that produces a succulent white dessert wine from Friuli, possesses a profound chocolate aromatic. Don`t ask me how.

There are countless grappa producers in Italy. Most Italian wineries produce a grappa, and there are several grappa specialists, such as Nonino and Bocchino, which are among my favorites. A few other grappas to look for: Aviognesi, Tignello, Giacomo Bologna, Gaja Barbaresco, Michele Chiarlo Grappa di Barolo, Banfi and Ruffino Riserva Ducale Gold.WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Geyser Peak 1999 Reserve Chardonnay, Alexander Valley ($24) - No one would have imagined 15 years ago that Geyser Peak would emerge as one of California`s top wineries. The transformation is nothing short of astonishing for a winery that now seems to do everything right, including chardonnay (miracle of miracles). This one bursts with pure fruit aromas, particularly pineapple. Rating: 92.

Ferrari Carano 1999 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley ($25) - Of the two chardonnays produced by Ferrari-Carano, this one has always impressed more than the reserve because of its balance and purity. Fresh, clean, ripe fruit that hasn`t been heavily zapped with oak or overly manipulated. Rating: 90.

Very Good Chappellet 1998 Merlot, Napa Valley ($24) - There are naysayers about this vintage, but the truth is there are exceptional wines to be found.

The Chappellet merlot has an expressive nose, finesse and elegance on the palate, and a spicy/sweet finish. Who says a Napa Valley red has to be all about brute strength? Rating: 89.

Chappellet Vineyard 1998 Sangiovese, Napa Valley ($24) - For sheer brightness of fruit and purity of flavor, few Napa Valley wineries do a better job than Chappellet. This wine has plenty of guts, too. Rating: 87.

Pommery Brut Royal, Champagne ($33), will appeal to aficionados who prefer the fresh, crisp style of a brut that is on the dry side of the dosage range for a brut Champagne. Beautifully crafted. Rating: 88.

Francis Coppola 1999 Diamond Series Green Label Syrah, California ($15) - A plump, juicy syrah that trumped a few $40 wines in blind tastings. Very high on the quality/value scale. Rating: 87.

Glamour de Espana 1993 Reserva, Carinena, Spain ($15) - This is a wonderfully ripe, rich, oily red wine from a small region in central Spain. The blend of grapes (grenache, tempranillo and carignan) is typical of the region and produced a delicious result in this vintage, a wine that is youthful despite its age. Rating: 87.

Good Value Montevina 1999 Zinfandel, Amador County ($12) - Jammy blackberry fruit aromas and loads of spice characterize this excellent value wine from one of California`s premier zinfandel regions. Rating: 86.

Falling Star 2000 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon, Argentina ($4.99) - Interesting melon and fig nuances in a nicely balanced wine that even I can afford. Rating: 79.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

What could me more sublime than the nutty Domecq Amontillado 51-1a ($79) with a chunk of aged manchego cheese and roasted nuts? Well, you could serve it with a rich mussel bisque.

Rich and complex without being too sweet, Amontillado 51-1a is a superbly balanced medium-dry luxury sherry.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

The cheese course after dinner doesn`t have to be a cumbersome ritual of selection from numerous options. Sometimes simple is just as satisfying. A plate of Parmesan cheese drizzled with aged balsamic vinegar (the older the better) and a glass of Amarone will dazzle most any dinner guest.

Hot Link: Grape Vine Weekly

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley