A wine with wheels

BORDEAUX, France - There is little gloom in Bordeaux today despite the persistence of an unusually wet winter that has carried over into spring. The wines of vintage 2000 have been presented with the expectation they would be well-received. Nothing could dampen the enthusiasm of the Bordelais as they showed off the new vintage for journalists and the wine trade during en primeur tastings in the final week of March.

"This is one of the greatest vintages of the last century," declared Chateau La Fleur de Gay`s Alain Raynaud, a former president of the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux, which organized the degustations. "We have not seen such a great vintage in St. Emilion and Pomerol since 1982 and 1990. This same comparison is being made in the Medoc between this vintage and 1982 and 1996. In my opinion, this could be one of the top five or six vintages of the century."

Though the French are always quick to hop the great vintage bandwagon, this one appears to have wheels. The conditions through the growing seasons were ideal. A warm summer brought the grapes to optimum maturity levels, and weather in September was spectacular as the harvest commenced. The grapes were perfect. Only the districts of Sauternes and Barsac, which produce sweet dessert wines, did not enjoy good conditions throughout. Storms cut short the harvest in those areas and yields were down dramatically - as much as 60 percent from a typical vintage.

The barrel samples presented during the en primeur tastings had much in common. Whether the wines were produced on the right bank or the left, all had exceptional color and concentration.

"What we see this year is classic Bordeaux winemaking," said Raynaud. "When you don`t have to do anything special in the cellar to get color and extract, you know it has been a good year."

The kindness of nature is viewed as a gift from heaven by some in Bordeaux. "We receive this vintage with great joy," said the eloquent Jean-Michel Cazes of Chateau Lynch-Bages. "It comes at the right time. Bordeaux needs some excitement. In the past few years, Bordeaux has had some hard times in some markets.

"The Italians have had several good vintages back to back. They have been very successful. Now the light will shine a little bit on Bordeaux. It`s our turn. And there`s lots of talk about the Old World wines versus the New World wines. Now the Old World is fighting back.

"We`re coming at the right time with a good quality wine at a reasonable price. The Californians have priced themselves out of the market. You can`t buy a good California wine anymore for less than $50."

One mark of an excellent vintage is the quality at the less distinguished chateaux.

"The top growths are all great wines," said Cazes. "This quality follows down the line. Of course, there are exceptions. If you look really hard, I`m sure you can find a few terrible wines in Bordeaux - just like any other year."

Next week: Highlights and selected ratings from the Bordeaux en primeur tastings.WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation. To find these wines, contact your local retailer. An establishment that prides itself on service will be more than happy to assist in the search.

Exceptional:

Chappellet 1998 Molleux, Napa Valley ($42/375 ml bottle). California produces a number of surprisingly good dessert wines, but few this exceptional. Made from old-

vine chenin blanc, the Molleux is as good as any dessert wine you`ll find in Vouvray, the French home of this underappreciated grape variety. At Chappellet the Molleux is hand picked, using only grapes that have been infected with the botrytis mold, which the French call "noble rot." This concentrated white dessert wine is complex and dazzling. Rating: 96.

Very Good:

Raimat 1997 Tempranillo, Spain ($15). Some of the greatest values in quality red wine are to be found in Spain, particularly in areas that are off the beaten path. The Raimat estate is situated 125 miles west of Barcelona in the northeast corner of Spain. The Raimat Tempranillo (the same grape used to make the red wines of Rioja and Ribera del Duero) is rich and full-bodied, with excellent concentration, structure and length. Rating: 88.

Simi 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County ($13). Well made for this oaked style of sauvignon blanc that is so popular with California winemakers. The time spent in oak is minimal (four months) and the result is a fresher wine. There is an herbal element in the aroma that doesn`t quite get to the point of being grassy. On the palate, there is a fullness that gives way to a crisp finish. The flavors trend toward grapefruit, other citrus fruits and melon. Rating: 87.

Castello di Gabbiano 1997 Chianto Classico Riserva, Italy ($17). While lacking the power and concentration of some of the `97 riservas, the Gabbiano is beautifully balanced and elegant. In its price category, this wine fits nicely. Rating: 87.

Good Value:

Santa Julia 2000 Merlot, Argentina ($6.99). Hard to believe you can find a wine with this much plump, juicy berry fruit for this price. That`s the potential of Argentina, where land is still cheap and improved viticultural practices are a recent phenomenon. Good enough to serve to guests. Makes a wonderful house red. Rating: 83.

Marques de Arienzo 1997 Rioja, Spain ($10). This crianza Rioja is meant to be light in style and easy to pair with food. It`s fresh on the palate, with spicy fruit and pretty cherry and plum aromas. Perfect with shellfish and pasta in a red sauce. Rating: 81.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Grey Goose Vodka ($29) is the trendy French libation to consume when you aren`t imbibing a French wine or a French eau de vie. Before dinner, perhaps. The Goose has a slightly musty aroma and a pleasing burn on the back of the palate. Makes for a chic martini.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Sauternes is the traditional match for foie gras, but the underlying theme is richness, complexity and the essence of sweetness. The wine doesn`t have to be sweet so much as it must seem sweet. Should the wine rack be bereft of sauternes, a rich chardonnay will do. An older rich chardonnay would be my preference, but those are difficult to come by these days, so any fat, rich, complex chardonnay will do in a pinch. The Meridian 1999 Santa Barbara Chardonnay, for example.

Hot Link: KL Wines

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley