Here`s all the news that`s fit to vint

by Robert Whitley | Apr 23, 2001
Here`s all the news that`s fit to vint News item: Castello Banfi is crowned Italy`s best winery for the eighth consecutive year at the annual VinItaly wine competition, where more than 100 judges recently evaluated 2,500 wines from 28 countries over four days.

Comment: This is one of the most challenging international wine competitions I know of, having served as a judge in 2000. The judges know neither the winery nor the wine varieties they have tasted until after the results are announced.

Banfi also picked off the Premio Gran VinItaly, awarded to the the competition`s international winery of the year, for the fourth time. Banfi previously won the Premio Gran VinItaly in 1996, `95 and `94.

The string of successes at VinItaly is remarkable, but hardly surprising. John and Harry Mariani, wine importers from New York, founded Banfi on an estate outside the ancient stone walls of Montalcino more than 25 years ago. Besides planting a number of grape varieties (syrah, merlot, cabernet sauvignon) not indigenous to the area on their 7,100-acre estate, the Marianis encouraged innovation in other ways.

Banfi`s research has identified more than 100 clones of sangiovese, including several variations of the Brunello di Montalcino clone, which is the backbone of Brunello, arguably Italy`s most successful red wine.

The lesson for all is that even a huge winery - the Banfi estate is the largest contiguous vineyard in Italy - can make great wines if it is dedicated to quality and pays attention to detail.

News item: Clos du Bois winery announces that its Sonoma County appellation wines, roughly one million cases of production, will be bottled with synthetic corks beginning this year.

Comment: It`s high time even more high-profile wine brands transition away from the traditional cork closures produced from cork oak trees in Portugal, Italy and Spain. Oak corks are unreliable in increasing numbers, introducing off aromas that diminish the wine experience.

Particularly troubling to the wine industry is the perception that some wines are poorly made, when in fact the wine doesn`t taste good simply because of a faulty cork. Cork producers have been unable or unwilling to implement adequate quality controls, pushing the entire wine industry toward the day when even the most expensive wines will have alternative closures.

My only concern is the ease of pulling the synthetic corks. The closures are often so tight that the corks can`t be pulled with anything but a sturdy waiter`s corkscrew.

A Clos du Bois spokesman says that problem has been addressed and the Clos du Bois synthetic corks will be user-friendly.

News item: Severe frost damage in Sonoma and Napa will reduce yields in the 2001 vintage by as much as 15 percent.

Comment: This is not good news for consumers at the most basic level - pricing. Extensive new vineyard plantings have created a glut of wine grapes, putting downward pressure on prices. Prices dropped on chardonnay in the 2000 vintage, and merlot growers were expected to take a price hit this year.

The math is easy. When there are too many grapes and too much wine in the pipeline, prices come down.

The frost that recently struck Napa and Sonoma might create enough of a shortage of premium grapes this vintage to keep the current price structure propped up for another year. But the glut is upon us, though it may take another vintage to become obvious at the local wine shop.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Very Good

Bodegas Bilbainas "La Vicalanda de Vina Pomal" Rijoa Riserva, Spain ($22). This single-vineyard Rioja is from a 25-acre plot, making it rare as well as very good. Aged one year in new French oak and two in bottle, this wine has evolved nicely. Pretty cherry and currant aromas, spice and complex earth nuances emerge slowly after decanting. Perfectly balanced, it will improve with age for another ten years or more in a good cellar. Rating: 89.

Merryvale 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($25). This is not the typical Napa Valley cab everyone has come to expect from Merryvale. It`s lighter and less intense than in `97, but with good structure and elegance. This is a wine that effectively demonstrates vintage differentiation. Will improve over the next several years. Rating: 88.

Schug 1999 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($20). As California pinot noir prices skyrocket, this well-made offering from Schug seems a genuine bargain, if not an outright steal. Complex nuances of red and black fruits are beautifully accented by hints of spice. There is an intriguing minerality and excellent length in the mouth. Rating: 88.

Good Value

Hogue 1998 "Vineyard Selection" Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($16). It`s easy to pigeonhole this winery as a white wine marvel. The whites are generally well balanced, flavorful and inexpensive. They make reds, too, and with the same level of care. This isn`t a jammy California-style cab, but it`s plenty satisfying and at a reasonable price. Cherry and currant are the dominant flavors, with an herbal nuance that is typical in cooler climate cabernet. Rating: 85.

Santa Julia 2000 Chardonnay, Argentina ($6.99). The Mendoza region has vast potential to produce important wines at lofty prices, but there continues to be excellent quality in the modest price range. Santa Julia does an excellent job with just about everything in the under $10 category. The wines are clean and fruity and always good for the price. The chardonnay is a great example. Light, but with plenty of aromatic and flavor nuances. Rating: 80.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Boodles Gin ($25) has always been a personal favorite, revealing perhaps my preference for the aromatic gins. Boodles is heavily perfumed with the scent of juniper and cedar, balanced in the mouth with a gentle burn at the back of the throat. Serve it on the rocks with a chunk of fresh lime or a lemon twist. This is a refreshing summer sipper.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Chef Michael Stebner of San Diego`s 910 Restaurant suggests smoked salmon with a crisp dry riesling. The bold flavor and bracing acidity stand up to the strong flavor and high fat content of the smoked salmon. His second choice with the salmon: non-vintage brut Champagne.

Visit Robert Whitley online at WhitleyonWine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

Article continues below

advertisement
AMedicalSpa_728x90_March2024



Author: Robert Whitley

Archives


Vintage port is built to last

California`s Chalone making a comeback

Dining well in California wine country

Ports are more durable than most wines

Grappling with grapes

The many glories of grappa

A wealth of great wine

The seismic shifts at Chandon

The readers always write

A wine with wheels

Robert Mondavi`s California dream

A level playing field at the Monterey Wine Competition

Fine wines can still be kosher

You`ll appreciate your older wine more than it appreciated

The world-class wines of Yarra Valley


More Articles