A level playing field at the Monterey Wine Competition

Once a year, as director and chief judge of the Monterey Wine Competition, I immerse myself in the wines of the world. This annual exercise is useful in a number of ways, not the least of which is the light it shines on a few relatively obscure wines and wineries.

The seven panels of judges who assembled at the Salinas Valley Fairgrounds in King City, Calif., in early March tasted the 1,128 entries blind, then cast their votes on taste rather than the prestige of the producer. This always produces a few surprises. The sweepstakes wines, or double-gold medal wines, as it were, are the most revealing. Judges sometimes come across a wine they believe can compete for best of show. These wines, already gold medal winners, are elevated to the sweepstakes round of judging for best of show in the appropriate category.

All of the judges` panels participate in the sweepstakes voting, and I taste all of these wines as well. World famous producers, such as Moet & Chandon, Beringer and Sempe, compete head-to-head with unknowns such as Sycamore Creek and Pepperwood Grove. The blind-tasting levels the playing field, and the results are not always predictable.

This was my eighth year as director and chief judge of the Monterey competition, and each year I`ve shared highlights of the results. Wine competitions are as much for the benefit of the wine consumer as they are for the wineries that enter. This week`s Wine Finds are drawn exclusively from MWC medal winners. Complete results can be found at www.whitleyonwine.com. Enjoy.

WINE FINDS

Because this week`s recommendations are based on medals and awards won at the annual Monterey Wine Competition, the following key should be your guide: G, gold medal; SW, sweepstakes wine and BS, best of show wine.

Exceptional:

Calem 1997 Vintage Port, Portugal ($65). The judges noted this port, from a very good vintage, had exceptional structure and length on the palate. Awards: G, SW, BS dessert.

Lanson 1988 Noble Cuvee, Champagne, France ($100). This Champagne`s freshness despite its age impressed the sparkling wine panel. Awards: G, SW, BS sparkling.

Geyser Peak 1998 Petit Verdot, Alexander Valley ($20). You could count on one hand the California wineries that make good wine from this difficult Bordeaux varietal. Awards: G, SW.

Jekel 1998 FOS Chardonnay, Monterey County ($22). The second best-of-show white wine for Jekel in the past seven years. One more indication Monterey County grows maybe the finest chardonnay in California. Awards: G, SW, BS white.

King Estate 1997 Reserve Pinot Noir, Oregon. I compared this to the fabulous 1994 from King Estate. Awards: G, SW.

Meridian Vineyards 1998 Syrah, Paso Robles ($15). Very bright, pure, high-toned fruit. I thought this wine had the potential to claim the sweepstakes. So much wine for the price. Awards: G, SW.

Ramos-Pinto Porto Aged 20 Years, Portugal ($59). This was a close call in the balloting for best dessert wine. Came down to ruby lovers vs. tawny lovers. Awards: G, SW.

Sycamore Creek Vineyards 1999 Merlot, Santa Clara Valley ($20). This wine wowed all of the judges with its purity and depth of fruit. A very pretty wine. Awards: G, SW, BS red.

Very Good:

Armida 1998 Merlot, Russian River Valley ($24). This winery`s best showing ever at the MWC. Awards: G, SW.

Beaulieu Vineyard 1998 Reserve Pinot Noir, Carneros ($35). BV will always be a cabernet house, but this pinot wasn`t too shabby. Awards: G, SW.

Beringer 1999 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($16). An impressive wine for the price. Awards: G, SW.

Gloria Ferrer 1993 Royal Cuvee Brut, Carneros ($22). The finest expression of California sparkling wine, but no match for the Lanson tetes de cuvee. Awards: G, SW.

Guenoc 1999 Genevieve Magoon Chardonnay, Guenoc Valley ($27). For those who like rich, buttery California chards. Awards: G, SW.

Marcelina 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley. I didn`t get a fair read on this wine in the sweepstakes round because the cork was bad. But the panel that nominated it loved it. That`s good enough for me. Awards: G, SW.

Moet & Chandon Brut Imperial, Champagne, France ($40). This Champagne was absolutely lovely, but fell to a tetes de cuvee from a rival house. No shame in that. Awards: G, SW.

Navarro 1999 Gewurztraminer, Anderson Valley ($25). This late-harvest dessert wine would have won the sweeps in its class in just about any other year. Awards: G, SW.

Rosenbloom 1998 Rhodes Vineyard Zinfandel, Redwood Valley ($24). This is a sensational zin from a zin master. Awards: G, SW.

Savannah-Chanelle 1999 Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands ($37). If this pinot is any indication, the pinot producers are closing the gap in Monterey with the chardonnay producers. Awards: G, SW.

St. Supery 1997 Red Meritage, Napa Valley ($50). This was a great vintage for red wines in the Napa Valley, and St. Supery made the most of it. Awards: G, SW.

Wente 1999 Rive Ranch Reserve Chardonnay, Monterey County ($16). Another Monterey chard in the sweepstakes round. This is no longer surprising. Awards: G, SW.

Good Value:

Indigo Hills 1998 Pinot Noir, Central Coast ($14). This qualifies as a great job in a difficult vintage. Great price for the quality, too. Awards: G, SW.

Jekel 1998 Pinot Noir, Monterey County ($15). Two sweepstakes wines in one competition is quite the accomplishment. Great value in this luscious wine. Awards: G, SW.

Pepi 1999 Barbera, California ($16). Plump and juicy, loaded with flavor and delicious today. Great value! Awards: G, SW.

Pepperwood Grove 1999 Zinfandel, California ($6.99). Can`t beat it for the price. Awards: G, SW.

Pepperwood Grove 1999 Syrah, California ($6.99). Fleshy and delicious. Can you say value? Awards: G, SW.

Phillips Vineyards 1999 Mourvedre, Lodi ($15). This wine had the earthy tobacco overtones that make certain zinfandel lovers swoon. If you like the Gary Farrel zins, you`ll no doubt enjoy the Phillips Mourvedre. Awards: G, SW.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK:

Sempe 1986 Armagnac, France ($70). The judges were blown away by the aromas, the complexity, the smooth mouthfeel. Awards: G, SW, BS spirit.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

There are two reasons to decant wine. The first is to let a young wine breathe and develop aroma by introducing oxygen over a broad surface. The second is to remove sediment that forms on the sides of the bottle in older wines.

When decanting an older wine, it is important that the wine is not exposed to air for a lengthy period of time, lest what fruit aromas remain dissipate. Either decant at the time of serving, or decant earlier and refill the empty bottle with the same wine after rinsing the sediment from the bottle.

Hot Link: www.grapevineweekly.com

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley