Robert Mondavi`s California dream

OAKVILLE, Calif. - Many of his colleagues in the Napa Valley kiss the ground he walks on. All the way to the bank.

Robert Mondavi opened his winery here in 1966 with a simple promise that he would make wine as good as any in the world. He wasn`t too shy about it, either.

It was a bold ambition for a fledgling winery with just three employees. His eldest son, Michael, made the wines and Robert sold them. The idea that a California winery could compete with renowned French producers such as Rothschild and Latour was a fantasy - at the time.

The family enjoys spinning the yarn about Michael driving north through the valley on Highway 29 with his left arm out the window to signal he was turning into the new winery.

"He was hoping the people in the cars behind him would see him pointing and follow him into the parking lot," says Robert Mondavi.

The winery now receives a quarter-million visitors a year.

The stunning wealth of the Napa Valley today can be traced directly to Mondavi`s doorstep. He made it chic to drink California wine, particularly Napa Valley cabernet.

The Mondavi wines were ahead of their time in that early period of modern California viticulture.

"They called us the `test tube` winery," Michael Mondavi remembers.

With boundless enthusiasm and the core belief that his wines were in fact as good as any in the world, Robert Mondavi criss-crossed a skeptical nation with his simple message. No one would dispute that Robert Mondavi led California viticulture out of the wilderness just as surely as Moses parted the Red Sea.

Now, at 87, he is enjoying the fruits of his labor. There are partnerships with Rothschild in France, Antinori and Frescobaldi in Italy, Chadwick (Errazuriz) in Chile. The Mondavi family owns California wineries Byron and Arrowood, among the finest wine properties in Santa Barbara and Sonoma counties, respectively.

But Robert is not ready for the rocking chair yet. There is one more mountain to climb.

The Robert Mondavi Winery is going back to the future.

Robert`s role is more visionary now. Michael leads the winery as CEO and younger brother Tim is winemaker. The three are of one mind on the direction of California wine, specifically Mondavi wine.

"We want to make wines that respect this great land that these grapes come from," said Tim as he led a tour of Mondavi`s To Kalon vineyard, the backbone of the Mondavi reserve wines.

The winery recently completed what it is calling its "To Kalon Project," a $30 million renovation of the original Mondavi building. The centerpiece of the project is the fermentation cellar, where large oak fermenters have been erected to replace the stainless steel fermenters that had been used for the past 30 years.

When the Mondavi winery opened its doors for the first time, stainless steel fermenters were cutting edge. Most everyone else in California used redwood casks to ferment their red wines.

"The stainless steel fermenters probably would have been good for another 30 years," said Robert Mondavi. "We didn`t need to do this. We did it because we think it will make a better wine. A gentler wine. A less tannic wine. A wine that will go better with food.

"Is it worth $30 million to make a better wine? We think so."

This new focus at Mondavi represents a temblor in the California wine industry. Three of its most influential citizens - Robert, Michael and Tim Mondavi - are bucking the conventional wisdom. They`ve said no to too much oak, too much alcohol, too much power in their wines.

Elegance is the new buzzword at Mondavi. Respect the land, respect the fruit.

It`s a timely message from a timeless messenger.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Artesa 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($33). This wine shows the diversity of the Napa Valley. The grapes from Howell Mountain give it rich, dark, currant flavor and grip, though the tannins are ripe and sweet. The grapes from Carneros add elegance, bright high-toned fruit nuances and structure. Put them together and the result is a beautifully made Napa cab. Score: 93.

Chappellet 1999 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($22), has all of the creamy, spicy nuances that rock the average chardonnay lover. Loads of fruit, too. While I would prefer less of the oak and butter characteristics, the Chappellet is excellent for the genre and has impressive richness and weight on the palate. Those who enjoy rich, buttery chards will find this one more balanced than most. Score: 91.

Very good:

Chateau de Chamirey 1999 Mercurey, France ($20), qualifies as a steal for a red Burgundy. This was an exceptional vintage, particularly for the reds, and the Chamirey shows off the concentration and ripe flavors of the vintage. This wine has power and presence, richness on the palate and an array of pretty black fruit aromas. Score: 87.

Good value:

Montevina 2000 Pinot Grigio, Lodi ($10) is more in the riper, fuller style of a pinot grigio from central Italy than the steely wines made from the same grape in northern Italy. Very pleasant lime juice/citrus notes and nicely balanced. Score: 85.

Montevina 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, California ($7). Buy this wine by the case and make it your summer sipper or house white wine, particularly if you find it for less than the national suggested retail price. The grapes are sourced from California`s Central Coast, mostly Monterey and Santa Barbara counties, and the wine is produced in the no-oak style that allows the herbaceous aromatics to shine. Score: 86.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Bowmore Voyage Single Malt Scotch ($105) is a limited edition bottling that master distiller Jim McEwen ages 12 years in bourbon barrels before moving it to port casks for 18 months. The sweetness extracted from the port-cask aging is perfect counterpoint to the smoky, sea-salt characteristic of this exceptional malt from Islay.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Few authorities offer opinions on wines to serve with Mexican cuisine. A couple of interesting combinations jump out to me. A spicy California zinfandel makes a nice match with carne asada. For Mexican seafood dishes, particularly those that are picante, I enjoy sparkling wines and Albarino, the dry Spanish white wine.

Hot Link: www.tapwc.com.au.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley