The world-class wines of Yarra Valley

MELBOURNE, Australia - The route south from Australia`s second-largest city to the Yarra Valley winds through rolling hills and sprawling suburbs, the sort of development that is crowding vineyards in both the Old World and new.

The hour`s drive to the heart of the Yarra deposits a visitor in some of Australia`s oldest wine country, dating back to the 1860s. The Yarra is a cool region in the state of Victoria, very near Australia`s southern coast and unlike any other premium viticultural area in this nation that is roughly the size of the United States.

The cool, sometimes damp, climate is not kind to Australia`s most prized grape variety - shiraz.

"When the fog rolls in here the shiraz will literally rot before your eyes," says Yarra winemaker Hugh Cuthbertson.

Not that the risks prevent anyone from planting shiraz. Many do and, when it`s right, it is very good and unique among Australian shiraz; usually elegant, lower in alcohol and notable for a spicy white pepper characteristic.

What makes Yarra distinctive from Australia`s other top regions is the ability to grow world-class pinot noir and chardonnay. Both are Burgundian grape varieties that perform better in cooler climates, which produce higher levels of acid and excellent balance in the finished wines.

"The typical Yarra Valley chardonnay has a lot of pineapple and tropical fruit," notes winemaker Matt Steel of Yarra Ridge Winery, where the Greg Norman Estates chardonnay is made.

Yarra Valley pinot noir is not as well defined, owing to more recent plantings and ongoing trials to determine the best clones for the area. Those made at Yarra Ridge and yering Station, for example, are flavorful and complex. The yering Station Pinot Noir, which is available in most major cities in the United States, is an unfiltered pinot noir with exceptional power and flavor, one of the best examples to date of the promise of Yarra Valley.

"We`re learning with each vintage which pinot clones work best for each microclimate," said Cuthbertson. "The biggest problem the Yarra Valley faces is suburban creep. Civilization comes right up to the edge of the vineyards. There isn`t much room for growth."

Yet pinot noir aficionados can take heart. The Yarra may not be getting bigger, but all the evidence suggests this cozy Burgundian region south of Melbourne is getting better. And quality will trump quantity every time. WINE FINDS:

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point, the numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Tenute Marchese Antinori 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy ($35), is Antinori`s top-of-the-line Chianti, produced only in exceptional vintages. The 1997 harvest has taken on mythical proportions throughout Tuscany, so the expectations are great.

The Tenute Marchesi Antinori delivers the goods, albeit in a way few Chianti connoisseurs could have dreamed. This is a very elegant, smooth Chianti Classico that could easily be mistaken for Bordeaux. Overlaying the rich, ripe fruit is an earthy, cedary, barnyard essence that is typical of Bordeaux. Perhaps this owes to the small percentage of cabernet sauvignon in the blend, or perhaps it`s the French oak. Whatever, this is a deeply flavored Chianti Classico that lives up to the stellar reputation of the vintage. (Score: 94)

Very Good

Baileyana 1998 Pinot Noir, San Luis Obispo ($23), fits nicely in this price range. It`s not a blockbuster, tending more toward elegance than power. Pretty fruit aromas of black cherry, red raspberry and tomato flower carry forward from the nose to the palate, which is rich and generous. The tannins are ripe and smooth. (Score: 89)

Villa Cerna 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy ($21), is a wine that was made to embrace the traditions and history of Chianti. It`s not just the classic cherry, violet nose, but the traditional practice of blending white grapes (trebbiano and malvasia) with red to produce a softer, earlier maturing Chianti.

Because of the excellence of the vintage, there is more power and weight on the palate. It`s a wonderfully fruit-driven Chianti made in the old style, but with a great vintage to give it oomph. (Score: 88)

Good Value

Wolf Blass 2000 Riesling, South Australia ($11.99), shows off the exceptional character of riesling from two outstanding appellations in South Australia, the Clare and Eden valleys.

Although meant to consume now, this wine will evolve nicely as a honeyed character emerges to complement the typical passion fruit/lime juice aromas. Outstanding with spicy cuisine, fish and soft ripened cheeses. (Score: 88)

Banfi 2000 San Angelo Pinot Grigio, Italy ($14), makes the point that Central Italy can produce high quality pinot grigio. This wine from Tuscany`s Montalcino district won`t be mistaken for one of those steely pinot grigios of Northern Italy, but it`s outstanding in its own right.

The nose is seductive and floral, the palate rich, full and round, the aromas of peach, pear, anise and honey, exotic for a white wine from this top-flight red wine area. Beautifully done. (Score: 86)

Brancott 2000 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, New Zealand ($10), hits a grassy note that immediately tips its hand as a cool-climate sauvignon blanc from New Zealand.

Aromas of gooseberry and citrus are pure and persistent. Crisp, well balanced and flavorful. Great as a sipper or with shellfish and herb-

dressed cheeses. (Score: 85)

Cecchi 1999 Chianti, Italy ($9), offers Chianti lovers on a budget a chance to taste the classic Chianti flavors of cherry, dried herbs and licorice at a very low price.

The vintage was another above-average harvest in Chianti, lifting all classifications within the region. Good everyday Chianti. (Score: 78)

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Bombay Sapphire Gin ($25) might be the king of the fragrant gins, giving off a classic juniper berry aroma, complemented by a lemony nuance and hints of dried herbs.

The 94 proof "Sapphire" has a moderate burn at the back of the palate, turning into a sweet finish with excellent length. Serve this on the rocks with a slice of lime, or make an elegant, flavorful martini. Save the tonic for a lesser gin.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Time to stock up on crisp white wines as the first buds of spring begin to push out. Fresh, crisp whites such as sauvignon blanc, dry riesling, pinot gris/pinot grigio, Spain`s fabled albarino and Italy`s sublime greco di tufo are the perfect picnic or after-work-on-the-sundeck wines. Lots of fruit and very little oak make these wines refreshing and quaffable.

HOT LINK: www.aboutwines.com.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine(at)aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley