Vintage port is built to last

Vintage port, that remarkably complex Portuguese wine that is only produced in the best years, presents a huge dilemma for the modern wine enthusiast. All that is required to develop an appreciation for this delicious dessert wine is a corkscrew, a glass, perhaps a hunk of stilton - and patience. It`s the lack of patience that trips up the average would-be connoisseur.

What distinguishes a true vintage port from vintage port-style wines made outside of Portugal (primarily in California and Australia) is structure. Vintage port is built to last. If well-made, it has firm tannins, the evidence being a "grip" on the finish that isn`t found in most vintage ports produced elsewhere. The reason for this is terroir. No other place in the world can replicate the precise conditions of the Douro, the region of northern Portugal where the port vineyards are planted on steep, terraced hillsides overlooking the Douro river.

Vintage port typically comes with the warning that substantial cellar aging is required to soften the tannins and fully develop flavor complexities. Fair enough. But who has either the cellar or the patience to buy a bottle of vintage port today and tuck it away for eight to 10 years before pulling the cork? No matter that the results can be impressive.

The 1994 port vintage, for example, was one for the ages. Both the 1994 Fonseca (my personal favorite that year) and `94 Taylor Fladgate earned a perfect score (100 points) from the Wine Spectator. What a pleasure it will be to savor those wines when they are ready to be drunk, sometime around the year 2015.

Better yet, why not buy vintage ports that already have been properly aged, no patience necessary. Now there`s an idea for the holidays. Taylor Fladgate, one of the Portugal`s top three port houses, has done just that, creating a limited edition gift box ($165) of three vintages of its single-vineyard Quinta de Vargellas. This single-vineyard vintage port is only produced in the best "non-declared" vintages, meaning the overall vintage did not measure up to the standards of the house and no Taylor Fladgate vintage port was produced.

In declared years, the wines of Quinta de Vargellas form the nucleus of the vintage Taylor Fladgate. Even in the so-called "off" vintages, this particular estate is renowned for the quality of its wines. The three vintages offered are the elegant, spicy 1987, the warm, supple 1988 and the baby of the group, the powerful 1996.

The ultimate indulgence is to taste all three side by side and experience the evolution of a classic vintage port by comparing the young port to the two older wines. Though all three wines are from the same vineyard, they display different characteristics and remarkably different texture in the mouth. This is an extraordinary opportunity at a modest price to gain an appreciation for the glory of aged vintage port, without the wait.WINE FINDS:

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Gosset 1995 Celebris, Champagne($129) - There are three things to look for in an expensive tete de cuvee Champagne: richness on the palate, extraordinary flavor complexity and finesse. The Gosset Celebris is all of that and more, an exceptional Champagne from an exceptional vintage. Rating: 95.

Rupert & Rothschild 1998 Baron Edmond, South Africa ($45) - Throw this wine into a blind tasting with a flight of red Bordeaux and the average person would never peg it for anything other than a young Pauillac, particularly on the nose. Alas, this traditional blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot is from the Rothschild venture in South Africa. One could argue that for good Bordeaux, Bordeaux is the only reliable source. I beg to differ. Rating: 90.

Very Good:

Il Poggione 1999 Rosso diMontalcino, Italy ($19) - Though this great Tuscan wine estate hoards the grapes from its finest vineyards for its amazing Brunello, the young vines that produce the Poggione rosso aren`t too shabby. This vintage was exceptional in Tuscany and the Poggione rosso shows outstanding richness and depth for an inexpensive wine. Rating: 89.

Domaines Schlumberger 2000 Gewurztraminer Fleur, Alsace ($21) - It is a signature of France`s Alsace region that the gewrztraminer grape develops a voluptuous feel in the mouth and a richness and weight that is unusual for this grape variety. Typical rose-petal aromas in the nose make this wine nearly as good to smell as to taste. Excellent when paired with pate, foie gras or spicy Asian cuisine. Rating: 89.

Robert Mondavi 1999 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($22) - If anything Mondavi produces is consistently underrated, it`s the chardonnay. It`s rich and full-bodied, yet structured and balanced. And it`s that unusual California chardonnay that goes down equally well with or without food. Rating: 88.

Bertani 2000 Due Uve, Italy ($11.99) - White wines from northern Italy`s Veneto region often don`t get the respect they deserve, the reputation of poor quality evolving over decades of bland vintages of soave.

Bertani`s Due Uve is an aromatic blend of sauvignon blanc and pinot grigio that displays a floral nose and crisp citrus notes on the palate. Most interesting indeed. Rating: 88.

Good Value Marchesi di Barolo 2000 Gavi LeLune, Italy ($12) - Crisp and refreshing white wine from Piemonte, excellent with fish and shellfish, particularly clams. Rating: 84.

Terrale 2000 Primitivo, Italy ($8) - Primitivo is said to be related to California`s zinfandel grape, though the similarities are not all that apparent. This wine from Puglia, in Italy`s southern boot, is more rustic and tannic than the average California zin, but rich, full-bodied and delicious for the price nonetheless. Rating: 84.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Smith Woodhouse 1999 Madalena Vintage Porto ($33) is supple and fruity and will mature more quickly and be ready to consume earlier than vintage port from stellar vintages such as 1997 and 1994. But the wine from this Quinta should not be discounted as a lightweight. It has exceptional structure and complexity, and a beautiful price.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

Vintage ports must be consumed soon after opening, unlike the wood-aged tawny ports that can remain fresh and flavorful long after the bottle is opened. Ideally, drink a vintage port within a week of opening. Otherwise, the fruity aromas that distinguish a ruby port from a tawny will oxidize and lose their alluring aromatics.

Hot Link: www.tapwc.com.au.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley