Fine wines can still be kosher

Some wine myths simply refuse to die. Take the one about kosher wine. Please. It was once true that no potted plant was safe when a kosher wine was being served. A person had to be discreet in those days, and perfect the art of holding a wine glass belt high. A quick flick of the wrist and no one was the wiser.

Truth be told, kosher wines were sickening. Cough syrup without the benefits. They deserved their ugly reputation. That was then and this is now. In the here and now, there are kosher wines that are serious and good. Or seriously good, if you prefer. There are kosher wines today that even serious wine buffs will sip long after Passover ends. It is time to lay to rest the myth that all kosher wine is sweet and nasty. That`s no longer the case.

The fine kosher wines from around the world are produced the same way fine wines are produced everywhere. The difference is in the handling. Only observant Jews may handle the grapes from crush to serving. All of the equipment used to make the wine must be used exclusively for the production of kosher wine or thoroughly cleaned before it can be used for kosher wine production. All of the products of wine production, such as yeast, must be kosher, too.

For a kosher wine to be served or handled by a non-Jew and remain kosher, it must be mevushal. A mevushal wine has been flash-pasteurized, a technique that may or may not alter the flavor characteristics of the wine. There is ongoing debate on that issue.

There is little doubt that even the better kosher wines are fruitier, less tannic and are not as heavy on the palate as similar wines. That doesn`t take away from the bottom line: a number of the kosher wines are excellent and compare favorably to other fine wines.

Here, then, are a handful of kosher wines that will more than satisfy the discriminating wine lover during the coming Passover and beyond:

Teal Lake 1999 Shiraz ($12) is a smooth, berry-driven red wine from Australia with plenty of elegant, spicy fruit with a hint of oak.

Alfasi 1999 Merlot ($7) is probably the best value I am aware of in kosher wines. It`s plump and fleshy, with a dried-herb, herbal aroma that has all the earmarks of a young Bordeaux. But it`s from the Maule Valley of Chile.

Hagafen 2000 Sauvignon Blanc ($13) is one of the better whites, though the Baron Herzog Chenin Blanc ($12) stands out in the arena of kosher whites. It`s one of the finest chenin blancs made in California, period.

The Baron Herzog 1999 Chardonnay ($12.99) is crisp and refreshing, with a core of bright fruit that makes it easy to sip by itself.

Baron Herzog also scores well with its 1999 zinfandel ($12.99) from Lodi. This is a good zin area and this wine has the ripe berry aromas zin-lovers enjoy without the heat. It`s produced in a more elegant style than most warm-climate zinfandel.

The Baron Herzog 1999 Cabernet Sauvigon ($12.99) is basically a Paso Robles cab and a good value wine. WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Sterling Vineyards 1997 Reserve Merlot, Napa Valley ($70), is everything California merlot should be but seldom is. This wine is positively succulent. The fruit is pure and vivid - bright aromas of blackberry, black currant and raspberry, a chocolatey finish, and fine, sweet tannins.

Winemaker Rob Hunter didn`t blow it with the oak, either. He allows the fruit to be the star, as it should be. Rating: 95.

Castello di Monastero 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva, Italy ($24), has all the earmarks of the new generation of wines from Chianti Classico, including the whiff of spicy French barrique (small oak barrels). This area that once produced light, thin wines of dubious character now goes toe-to-toe with the finest wines of the world and often wins.

The Castello di Monastero is full-bodied, rich and opulent. It smells great. It`s extraordinarily good to drink. Rating: 93.

Very Good:

Rosemount Estate 1999 Show Reserve Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, Australia ($17.99), has the balance that is too often lacking in the modern-day chardonnay. The more obvious rich, fat fruit characteristics have an underlying layer of lean fruit at the core, giving the wine structure and definition. Rating: 89.

Artesa 1997 Merlot, Napa Valley ($24), shouldn`t surprise anyone familiar with the brilliant merlots produced at Sonoma County`s Chateau St. Jean over the past decade. Winemaker Don Van Staavren, who was at the controls when CSJ rose to the top, is making the wines at Artesa now. He hasn`t lost his touch with merlot. Rating: 89.

Artesa 1998 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($19), is hardly my preferred style of sauvignon blanc, but it is extremely good for the genre of barrel fermented sauvignon blanc that is most popular among California winemakers. The floral/herbal aromatics survived the oak treatment, a tribute to the intensity and quality of the fruit. Rating: 88.

Good Value:

Masi 1997 Campofiorin, Italy ($15), might be the stepchild of the infamous Amarone, but there are similarities. This rich red wine from the Veronese region of northern Italy has power and flavor and is a perfect complement to strong cheeses, particularly blue-veined cheeses. Rating: 87.

Chateau St. Michelle 1999 Horse Heaven Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley ($14), derives its charm from the pleasing floral and mineral characteristics on the nose. The palate covers the range of melon and citrus aromas typical of sauvignon blanc, though no particular flavor dominates. Rating: 86.

Firestone 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, Santa Barbara County ($12), smells of ripe fig, a very proper, but seldom seen sauvignon blanc aroma. Not quite as austere and mineral/herbal as I would prefer, but an altogether enjoyable sauvignon blanc for sipping.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK:

Calem Old Friends Fine Tawny Porto ($13) is young and fruity, but with enough of the nutty characteristic of an older tawny to satisfy even demanding tawny port fans. Dirt cheap for a fortified wine of this quality.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

Chef Josef Lageder of La Costa Resort and Spa in Carlsbad, Calif., came up with this Champagne brunch suggestion: Thin potato pancakes topped with smoked salmon, sour cream and chive served with a California blanc de noir. The best of those are Gloria Ferrer and Mumm Cuvee Napa.

HOT LINK:

www.smartwine.com

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley