The readers always write

From professor Ron Anjard: Mr. (Robert) Parker, the "Pope" of wine, has said that 2000 Bordeaux is the greatest - the best of all time. So I was especially pleased to see that treated in your most recent column. Interestingly, I found no reference in the material to Mr. Parker.

I have heard the finest of the French winery owners acknowledge he is the best. Vineyards are successful or fail based on his ratings. I request that, in the future, all of the wines in your column have the Parker number included. This will give even greater credibility to your column.

Dear professor Anjard: There is little question that Robert M. Parker Jr. is the most influential wine critic in the United States. His newsletter is quoted by wine merchants nationwide to boost sales of the wines Mr. Parker fancies. Whether or not Mr. Parker`s word is gospel is another issue.

The Parker ratings are based on the Parker palate. Mr. Parker prefers a very specific style of wine. He is very consistent in his assessments. Because merchants closely follow the Parker ratings, more than a few wineries have altered the style of their wines in an attempt to earn a bigger Parker score and sell more wine at ever higher prices. That would be fine if every consumer shared Mr. Parker`s admiration for wines that emphasize rich, ripe fruit and power in the mouth. Every consumer doesn`t. Some are more content with wines that rely upon elegance and finesse. Those consumers are less likely to embrace the Parker scores.

Mr. Parker`s opinions are right only if they are right for you. The same holds true for any other wine critic. If one critic consistently recommends wines that please you, that`s the critic you should follow. The critics often disagree. Two winemakers tasting the same wine often disagree. Connoisseurs with years of tasting experience often disagree. What is most important, when it is your money, is that you like the wine. That said, I agree with Mr. Parker that the 2000 Bordeaux vintage is outstanding. I reckon that it is better than the 1982 vintage, which was overrated (by Mr. Parker no less).

After tasting more than 100 barrel samples of Bordeaux 2000, I came away impressed that there were so few bad wines. Even the lesser chateaux produced exceptional wine. Comparing it to the over-heralded, over-hyped vintage of 1982, the wines of 2000 have better structure and more elegance. It is that elusive combination of power and elegance that makes this vintage stand out.

Catherine Shaeffer writes: I was having wine with friends and we tried a wine called Far Niente, a 1995. The only place I can find it is at this particular restaurant for $125 a bottle. Any idea on how I can get a case?

Dear Catherine: It can be extremely frustrating to fall in love with a bottle of wine from an older vintage. Older vintages are difficult to locate and expensive when you do. Most wine shops only stock current vintages because it is too costly to hold inventory for any length of time. But there are exceptions. Some wine shops - they are few and far between - specialize in wines that are hard to find. These merchants are always on the lookout for interesting older wines that are put up for sale when a restaurant closes or a collector`s estate is liquidated. These are the best places to shop for older wines.

Sometimes the winery can be a source as well. Many wineries reserve a number of bottles from each vintage for sale at a later date. A phone call to Far Niente could solve the problem.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional

Napa Wine Co. 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($18) - Grapefruit is the dominant fruit aroma, complemented by nuances of fig and gooseberry. Flavorful and well made, with exceptional character. Rating: 90.

Chateau St. Jean 2000 Johannisberg Riesling, Sonoma County ($15) - It may surprise some that St. Jean has continued to produce riesling in the face of weak demand. They do so because they do it so well, a fact that is not lost on this wine`s legion of loyal followers. Full-bodied, rich and complex in an off-dry style. The Chateau St. Jean 2000 Gewurztraminer, Sonoma County ($15) is equally charming and might appeal more to those who favor the floral and spice aromatics of a rich, Alsatian-style gewurz. Rating: 90.

Very Good

Columbia Winery 1998 Merlot, Columbia Valley ($15) - The average merlot in this price range isn`t nearly this interesting. Pretty fruit aromas, excellent persistence of flavor and intensity and silky, polished tannins elevate this wine to another plateau. Merlot does well in this region, and you`ll need no further proof. Rating: 88.

Good Value

Maison Nicolas 2000 Reserve Chardonnay, France ($6.99) - More evidence of the emergence of the wines from the Pays d`Oc, France`s southernmost wine region. Complex for the price, fleshy and satisfying. Rating: 87.

J. Lohr 2000 Bay Mist White Riesling, Monterey County ($7.50) - Growing conditions were ideal for the development of botrytis, a mold that imparts a honey nuance that isn`t present every vintage. Off-dry, fruity, complex. Rating: 87.

Calina 1999 Chardonnay, Chile ($8 -. Beautiful balance and complexity, particularly in this price range. Wines like this will go a long way toward dispelling the notion that Chilean chardonnays under $10 are universally bland. Rating: 87.

Georges Duboeuf 2000 Beaujolais Villages, France ($7.99) - Fire up the barbie, chill down the beaujolais. This is a fruity summer quaffer that should be as much a part of the grilling scene as hot coals and tangy sauces. Rating: 81.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Plymouth Gin ($25) isn`t one of those chic new boutique gins. No, it`s an old-fashioned gin from England with bold juniper berry aromas, hints of dried herbs and spices, and tremendous length and power on the palate. If you mix your gin with tonic, but would like to still taste the gin, Plymouth Gin could be the answer.

SERVING SUGGESTION

At the risk of raising eyebrows, ask for an ice bucket the next time a wait-person serves the red wine warm. This is a problem in the summer months. Most restaurants don`t have the proper conditions for storing red wine. Five or ten minutes in a bucket of icy water will lower the wine temp a few degrees and increase your pleasure tenfold.

HOT LINK

www.bevmo.com

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley