Grappling with grapes

The reader posed an interesting question. She wanted to know the difference between chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc, white wines that had been recommended in recent columns. It was a timely reminder that the culture of wine is very young in the United States.

For most of the past century, California wine producers labeled any blend of white grapes "Chablis" and any blend of red grapes "Burgundy." Of course, this irritated the folks of Chablis (chardonnay) and Burgundy (pinot noir) to no end. Worse, it was a good bet there was little or no chardonnay in the "Chablis" and little or no pinot noir in the "Burgundy."

As the American wine palate evolved and tastes became more refined, a demand for better wines eventually led to more accurate labeling as a tool to identify a higher class of wine. The producers wisely chose to place the grape variety on the label. Thus, cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, riesling and a handful of other seemingly strange wines came to be.

Though this improvement in labeling occurred about 30 years ago, it would be naive to think everyone was paying attention. Wineries quickly expanded plantings of chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon and soon wine shops and restaurants were flooded with chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. It`s no wonder that today so many consumers only know and only ask for chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon. This, too, is evolving and changing.

For those wine enthusiasts curious enough to explore their favorite wine shop in search of other interesting wines, I offer the following:

- Pinot gris and pinot grigio: The same grape, but expressed in differing styles around the world. Pinot grigio from northern and central Italy is a light, crisp, dry white wine. Pinot gris from France`s Alsace region is richer and more full-bodied. The same grape is used to produce wine in both the French and Italian style in Oregon and California.

- Sauvignon blanc: Produced in northern Italy, France`s Loire Valley (Sancerre), New Zealand or Chile, this white wine will most likely express mineral, herbal and citrus characteristics.

From Bordeaux and California, the flavors shift toward melon and the presence of oak is more obvious. Viognier: A white grape from the south of France that has been widely planted in California. Very aromatic and expressive, usually with aromas of white flowers, stone fruits, apricot and honey. Its close relatives - marsanne and roussane - can be equally good and often better.

- Greco di Tufo: This crisp, complex, refreshing white wine is made from the greco grape, which migrated from Greece to Italy, where it thrives in the warm climate and volcanic soils south of Rome.

- Syrah and shiraz: This bold, spicy red wine is generally thought to have originated in the Rhone Valley of France, but its history traces deep inside ancient Persia.

Shiraz is the major red wine of Australia, and syrah (same grape) is becoming increasingly important in California, particularly the Central Coast. Easier to drink than cabernet when the wine is young.

- Tempranillo: This is the ultra-smooth red wine of Spain and is the backbone of the wines of Rioja and the Ribera del Duero. There are small plantings of tempranillo in Argentina and California. The tempranillo-based Spanish wines are exceptionally versatile food wines.

- Sangiovese: This is the most widely planted red grape of central Italy, including Tuscany. At its best (Brunello di Montalcino, Chianti Classico Riserva and the top Vino Nobile of Montepulciano), this grape produces many of the world`s most delicious and interesting red wines. Less successful in California and Argentina, though both countries have made great strides in recent vintages.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional

Northstar 1998 Merlot, Columbia Valley ($50) - This rich, sappy, spicy merlot from Washington has outstanding fruit that is dominated by the aroma of oak. Some will love it, some won`t. It remains an exceptional wine, but it could have been better. Rating: 90.

Errazuriz 1999 Syrah Reserva "Don Maximiano Estate," Chile ($24.99) - Complex layers of lush, ripe fruit, nuances or violets and leather, with spice and earth notes. Shows the exciting potential for syrah in Chile, particularly in the hands of a top producer. Rating: 90.

Very Good

Testarossa 1999 Pinot Noir "Gary`s Vineyard," Santa Lucia Highlands ($40) - This is the first production from a vineyard planted in a partnership between two of the top grape growers in Monterey County, Gary Franscioni and Gary Pisoni. It`s rich, intense and demonstrates the exceptional potential of this new pinot noir site. Rating: 89.

Merryvale 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($17) - This is an extremely smooth sauvignon blanc that is bursting with melon and pear flavors and a hint of toasty oak. Rating: 88.

Morgan 1999 Pinot Noir, Monterey County ($24) - Interesting flavors and aromas abound in this latest pinot from Morgan, but of particular importance is the finesse and velvety texture on the palate. To most who love the pinot grape, that`s what pinot noir is all about.

Columbia Winery 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley ($15) - Winemaker David Lake has crafted an elegant Bordeaux-style cabernet from this exceptional vintage. Rating: 87.

Murphy-Goode 1999 Chardonnay, Sonoma County ($15) - Outstanding complexity for this price range. Attribute that characteristic to the grape sources: Alexander Valley and the Russian River Valley. Tropical fruit and apple aromas are the dominant characteristics, and the nuance of oak is restrained and balanced. Rating: 87.

Good Value

Buena Vista 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, California ($7.99) - Pleasing grapefruit/citrus aromas that make for good summertime quaffing, but pair just as easily with grilled poultry and mild cheeses. Rating: 85.

Campanile 2000 Pinot Grigio, Italy ($10) - Produced in Friuli, one of the two best areas in Italy for pinot grigio (Alto Adige being the other), this pinot grigio shows the bracing freshness and structure that is typical of the white wines of the region. Good complexity and balance, too. Rating: 84.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Vincent Van Gogh Citroen Vodka ($30) brims with pure, ripe lime and lemon aromas. The hand-made, small-batch vodka from Holland is triple distilled, delivering a sleek, smooth mouthfeel. Needs no mixer.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

Grey Goose, the super-premium French Vodka, came up with its own French Cosmopolitan to celebrate Bastille Day. The refreshing summer cocktail calls for 2 1/2 ounces of Grey Goose Vodka L`Orange, one-half ounce of cointreau, a splash of cranberry juice, a squeeze of fresh lime and a lime-peel garnish. Shake over ice and strain into a chilled martini glass.

Hot Link: www.nextwine.com

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

Article continues below

---

advertisement

---

Author: Robert Whitley