The seismic shifts at Chandon

YOUNTVILLE, Calif. - It was a wonderful idea at the time, Domaine Chandon.

Sparkling wine production in the traditional Champagne method was relatively unknown in the United States in 1973, with the exception of the pioneering Schramsberg winery in the Napa Valley.

As a number of French companies weighed the potential for sparkling wine in California, Moet-Hennessy was the first to move in. A winery and restaurant were built here in the southern end of the Napa Valley and it was widely assumed the expertise of the Champenoise would rule.

Didn`t happen.

Though Roederer, Mumm, Taittinger and Deutz would follow Moet into the wilderness of California wine, there was trouble in paradise. The owners were indeed French, all from respected Champagne houses.

Didn`t matter. Couldn`t call it Champagne.

Couldn`t call it Champagne, couldn`t charge the big bucks.

Couldn`t charge the big bucks, couldn`t get any respect.

Oh, the times they are a-changing. But very slowly, and not without a few growing pains. Deutz, which produced an excellent product from California`s Central Coast as Maison Deutz, went bust. Cordorniu Napa, established by the Spanish cava house, changed its name to Artesa and went full bore into the production of still wines.

Methode champenoise - sparkling wine that is fermented in the bottle in the traditional Champagne method - is time-consuming and expensive to produce. The better wines require aging from three to five years. Considering an equivalent chardonnay or pinot noir from Napa or Sonoma is typically released within two years of the harvest and sells for more than the average California sparkling wine, the economics are dubious.

So it comes as no surprise that more than a quarter-century after its inception, Domaine Chandon finds itself in the midst of a renaissance. The first seismic change was at the top. Winemaker Dawnine Dyer, a fixture since the beginning, stepped aside just as Chandon started to retool.

In her place is Australian born and trained Wayne Donaldson, who made his mark with Chandon Australia, a small but successful extension of Moet located in the Yarra Valley south of Melbourne. Donaldson took the reins in July, 2000, and inherited a transition that was in full swing.

The second seismic shift at Chandon will be the introduction very soon of still wines. Chardonnay and pinot noir will be the first to appear on a broad scale, and cabernet sauvignon is a distinct possibility in a few years. This is the Napa Valley, after all.

Production of still wines will be in the 40,000-case range initially. Not huge, but not token by any means. The still wines will improve the bottom line at Chandon as the final phase of the makeover - repositioning the sparkling wines - takes hold.

"From a marketing standpoint, we lacked clarity," said Donaldson. "What`s the difference between premium and super premium? There was a lot of confusion about our reserve tier."

No small problem, for the reserve wines define the image of the winery. Beyond what Chandon calls "the classics," the everyday brut and blanc de noirs, there is a rich, complex reserve, the delicate, elegant etoile and a new line of vintage and vineyard-designated wines. The classics retail for about $15 and are the most prevalent in the market, giving Chandon something of an undeserved supermarket image.

The reserve goes for $25, etoile for about $35 and the Mt. Veeder vineyard and vintage-designated wines top out at about $50.

The importance of the reserve wines shouldn`t be underestimated. When it comes to bubbles, cachet is essential. Equality, or the perception of equality, with top Champagne is the goal.

"My thing is this," said Donaldson. "No matter what else you do, you have to deliver at $15."

Delivering is one thing. Winning over consumers who embrace the romance and magic of Champagne is something else.

The changes at Chandon are a step in that direction. But the future of premium sparkling wine production in California is far from decided. At the end of the day, it`s still a business that must show a reasonable profit.

It was a great idea in 1973. A quarter of a century later, I`m not so sure.

WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

EXCEPTIONAL

Ladoucette 1999 Sancerre Comte Lafond, France ($25). Very intense, aromatic wine loaded with bright citrus notes and flinty, mineral characteristics. Rating: 92.

Robert Pecota 1999 Syrah, Monterey County ($24). Extraordinary complexity and richness in this spicy, earthy wine from this Napa Valley producer. The grapes were sourced from the excellent San Bernabe vineyard in Monterey County. Rating: 91.

VERY GOOD

Marc Bredif 1999 Vouvray, France ($15). The body of a chardonnay, the melon flavors and voluptuous, juicy character of chenin blanc. Rating: 88.

GOOD VALUE

Flora Springs 2000 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley ($12). Clean and crisp, fresh and refreshing, everything pinot grigio should be but often isn`t. The winemaker allowed the full expression of the fruit and refrained from the almighty oak barrel that smothers so many white wines today. Bravo. Rating: 88.

Robert Pecota 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey County ($13). All the pretty aromas of a well-made sauvignon blanc are in evidence. Grapefruit, ripe fig and gooseberry complexities, with an herbal nose and a clean finish. Rating: 87.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

The Balvenie 25-year-old single-malt Scotch ($179) lives up to expectations despite the daunting price. This is an extremely complex spirit. A fruity bouquet leads you to aromas of honey and butterscotch on the palate, a touch of caramel and a sweet vanilla finish. Please, drink it neat.

SERVING SUGGESTION

Red wine enthusiasts are often presented with a seeming lack of choices when they wish to dine vegetarian. The best substitute for red meat when only a red wine will do is mushrooms. Pasta with mild mushrooms or a meaty grilled portabello mushroom will do nicely with most of your favorite red wines.

HOT LINK

French Wine Club

Visit Robert Whitley online or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c)Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley