A wealth of great wine

Everybody loves a bargain, particularly the wine aficionado. The affordable everyday wine softens the blow when it comes time to pony up for that rare or renowned bottle of wine to be served on a special occasion.

Though the higher price doesn`t always represent a corresponding increase in quality, there are indeed wines that can justify their hefty price tag based on unique qualities and characteristics that have been established over time. And, sometimes, someone simply makes a wine that is both stupendous and rare.

This week`s Wine Finds tilts its focus slightly, away from the Good Value emphasis of recent weeks to the rarefied air of the high end. Two exceptional wines from Italy and a number of new releases from California were impressive in recent tastings. These are wines that can be served to anyone, anytime, anywhere with complete confidence that you`ve gotten what you paid for in the bottle. That`s quite easier said than done.WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value. Note that wines rated Good Value are evaluated against the standard for their price category, not each other. For those who prefer the 100-point scale, the corresponding numerical ratings follow each recommendation.

Exceptional:

Il Poggione 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Italy ($71) - There`s a reason for the significant price gap between the top wines of Chianti and their Tuscan cousins, the Brunellos of Montalcino. Chianti is catching up quickly in the quality arena, but Brunello is already there.

The `95 Il Poggione is a classic example from an outstanding vintage. Everything about this wine - from the mesmerizing bouquet to the silky finish - oozes breeding, class and finesse. Rating: 97.

Ruffino 1997 Modus, Italy ($40) - This wine is the result of the Folonari family split, which saw one side of the family take the Super Tuscan, Cabreo, and a king`s ransom, while the other side kept the Ruffino name and most of the estates.

Modus is the new Ruffino Super Tuscan and it`s off to a roaring start. Nothing like launching a new wine with a fabled vintage. Modus is a blend of sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon and merlot, aged 16 months in French oak. Superb wine from one of the greatest vintages in the history of Tuscany. A steal at this price. Rating: 94.

Dominus 1998, Napa Valley ($100) - Everyone loves to pick on Dominus because the wines were next to undrinkable when the brand was created in the 1980s by Christian Mouiex of Bordeaux. It was such a curious phenomenon. Fabulous ratings, yucky wine.

The decade of the `90s has been kind to this Napa Valley powerhouse and the wines have improved dramatically. This is one of the most complete of the A-list Napa red wines from this vintage. Rating: 93.

J. Lohr 1997 Cuvee POM, Paso Robles ($75) - OK, lower that raised eyebrow. The same J. Lohr that always seems to be on the Good Value list proves it can play with the big boys.

POM identifies this as a red wine that represents a typical blend from the Pomerol district of Bordeaux. That means it`s merlot-based. Ripe, forward fruit, excellent texture and a long, long finish that certainly plays well, even when tasted next to a few of the Napa Valley`s top guns. Rating: 91.

Joseph Phelps 1998 Insignia, Napa Valley ($120) - It wouldn`t be fair to compare the `98 Insignia to the outstanding `97. Winemaker Craig Williams and crew did remarkably well to craft a cabernet-based red meritage with this much power and complexity from this very difficult vintage. Rating: 91.

Very Good:

Caymus 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($70) - Call this a good job in a difficult vintage. The cool growing season made it difficult to extract the color, flavor and body of a typical Caymus cab, but there is elegance and finesse and a purity of bright fruit aromas that might not be as evident this early in a blockbuster vintage. Rating: 88.

Greg Norman Estates Sparkling Chardonnay Pinot Noir, Australia ($19) - Even as Greg Norman`s golf career begins to slip, his stock in the wine business is soaring. As do the bright citrus aromas evident in this excellent sparkling wine from Australia`s cool Yarra Valley.

Only a slightly biting finish keeps this wine from a better score. That bite will diminish with time. And when was the last time you found a non-vintage brut sparkling wine that was recommended for additional cellaring? Rating: 87.

Good Value:

Robert Pecota 2000 Moscato d`Andrea, Napa Valley ($12) - This is a perfect summertime dessert wine, in the style of a late-harvest Moscato from Italy`s Piedmont region.

Refreshing rather than heavy and cloying, it pairs nicely with fruit-based dessert courses. Rating: 89.

Dry Creek Vineyard 2000 Dry Chenin Blanc, Clarksburg ($8.75) - Almost always one of the most interesting and underrated California white wines, the Dry Creek Chenin Blanc from this vintage shows bright tropical fruit and melon flavors, a juicy palate and excellent persistence of flavor. Tremendous value. Rating: 88.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK

Smith Woodhouse 1990 Late Bottled Vintage Port, Portugal ($26) - This style of port, a bottle-matured Late Bottled Vintage (LBV), has been all but abandoned by most Portuguese port houses.

Most current LBV - port from a single harvest that has been barrel-aged longer than a declared vintage - is released almost immediately after bottling. Smith Woodhouse LBV is cellared for an additional six years in bottle after four years in barrel. This results in an LBV with greater vintage port complexity and character.

The Smith Woodhouse 1990 is beautifully balanced, packed with rich berry aromas, a hint of chocolate and a long, smooth, spicy finish.

SERVING SUGGESTION

It`s always a good idea to decant that vintage port before serving. The older the port, the more urgent the need to decant. Vintage ports throw a heavy sediment that collects on the side of the bottle while aging.

The simple act of pouring the wine will disturb the sediment and result in a cloudy glass of wine if not properly decanted. The same is true of an LBV Port, though it is not as necessary in a younger vintage. Tawny ports do not require decanting.

Hot Link: www.evineyard.com.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley