In praise of port

As the days shorten and the chill of winter sets in, it seems a good time to say a few words about port, the fortified dessert wine that, at its best, ranks among the great wines of the world.

Port, despite its renown, remains a mystery to many consumers. Port is produced in Portugal, yes, but Australia and California weigh in with excellent ports, too. Port is fortified with brandy, which halts the fermentation before all the sugar is converted to alcohol. The result is a sweet dessert wine with a kick.

Were that the sum of it, there would be no mystery. In fact, that is merely the beginning. There are several types of port, and therein lies the source of confusion. At its most basic level, port is divided into three broad categories: ruby, tawny and white. Ruby port can be a simple non-vintage bottling that received minimal barrel time, a vintage port with about two years in barrel or a late bottled vintage port (LBV) that has spent about four years in wood.

Vintage ports are the most sought after and most expensive ruby ports. In great vintages, the prices rival those of classified-growth Bordeaux. The most outstanding recent vintages were 1997 and 1994. Characteristics of a great port vintage are extraordinary structure and fruit complexity. An LBV is a vintage specific port that generally lacks the structure to qualify as a vintage port.

Because of its more extensive barrel age, an LBV often lacks the vivid fruit concentration as well. Nevertheless, LBV`s represent some of the finest values in port. Non-vintage ruby ports such as Fonseca Bin 27, Graham`s Six Grapes and Sandeman Founders Reserve are always reliable and also represent good value. Tawny ports spend significantly more time in barrels than ruby ports and turn a tawny color, hence the name. The additional time in barrel gives a tawny port nuances of nuts and spice.

The most widely available tawny ports are aged 10 years, 20 years and 30 years. The older the tawny, the more the flavors tend toward nut, spice and caramel and away from the berry fruit spectrum. White port is produced from white grapes, is generally served as an aperitif and is often fermented dry or off-dry.

There are differences of opinion on how and when to serve port. Ruby ports pair nicely with chocolate desserts. Tawny ports work well with nuts, custards and some fruit-based desserts. All ports work well with cheese, particularly blue-veined cheeses, pungent cheeses and triple- and double-cream cheeses.

Of course, a glass of port all by itself in front of a crackling fire isn`t an altogether dismal prospect, either.

WINE FINDS:

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value.

Exceptional:

Castello Banfi 1997 Excelus, Italy ($73), advances the argument that Tuscany is as useful as any territory in the world for cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

While sangiovese remains the backbone of Tuscan red wine, there is profound evidence that cabernet and merlot have a significant future in Tuscany.

Banfi`s Excelus, a Super Tuscan blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon and 40 percent merlot from its own Montalcino estates, has abundant virtues: intensity, excellent complexity and, most important in such a powerful wine, elegance on the palate.

Ferrari-Carano 1998 Chardonnay Reserve, Napa/Sonoma ($32), certainly will dazzle those who enjoy rich, full-bodied chardonnay that has the weight and complexity to stand up to rich cuisine, such as lobster, salmon or game fowl.

Ferrari-Carano is well known for its luscious chardonnays and this one, drawn from its finest vineyard sources in the cool Napa Carneros district and the significantly warmer Alexander Valley, is an outstanding example from a very good vintage for white wines.

Delas Freres 1998 Condrieu Clos Boucher, France ($53), might confuse fans of viognier. This Condrieu possesses some striking similarities to a California viognier, which is unusual. For one thing it`s a fat Condrieu, full-bodied, rich and viscous. If you`re expecting a lean French version of this classic white Rhone grape, think again. Aromas of ripe peaches and honey and a thread of spicy oak meld beautifully in this superb viognier.

Very Good:

Jade Mountain 1998 "Caldwell Vineyard" Merlot, Napa Valley ($38), isn`t the everyday garden-variety merlot. Most appealing is its raspberry jam essence accented by spicy oak nuances. Balanced, supple, with polished, smooth tannins that make it immediately accessible.

Preston 1999 Barbera, Dry Creek Valley ($22), may well be the finest in California, where this classic northern Italian grape variety has yielded over the past half-century to more popular and commercial grapes, such as cabernet and merlot. Preston`s style is for a riper, jammier barbera than those from Italy`s Piedmont region. Bright raspberry, cherry-fruit aromas, perfect balance and smooth tannins make for a beautiful red wine that anyone can understand and enjoy.

Acacia 1999 Pinot Noir, Carneros ($25), speaks to the history of this winery. Acacia, which has had a few slips in recent years, is a pinot noir house. New vineyard sources are coming to the forefront and the quality shows. Acacia is slowly regaining its stride, and this wine is but one good example of the ongoing improvement.

Good Value:

Sterling 1999 Sauvignon Blanc, North Coast ($12), hits all the right notes, including a fair amount of the grassy, herbal nuance that is coming back into vogue among consumers.

Citrus, melon and fig nuances complete the picture. There is a telling dollop of semillon in the final blend. This is a crisp, balanced, fruit-driven sauvignon blanc.

Smith & Hook 1996 Merlot, Santa Lucia Highlands ($18), struck me as Bordeaux on first whiff. The herbal aroma characteristic of a young St. Emilion derives no doubt from a generous infusion (15 percent) of cabernet franc. The fruit is rich and fleshy on the palate, with layers of black cherry and blackberry that have definition and persistence.

Rosemount Estate 1999 Merlot, Australia ($11), comes from the most reliable producer of "value" wines in the world. It`s a yummy, supple, reasonably complex and ultimately satisfying merlot that stands out at this price.

Hogue 1999 Semillon, Columbia Valley ($8), could be the everyday house white. It has character, complexity and balance. The apricot, fig and melon aromas are a pleasing alternative to the ubiquitous apple, pear flavors of a typical chardonnay.

SPIRIT OF THE WEEK:

Belle de Brillet "Extra" Liqueur, France ($35), is for the host with a dramatic flair. Brillet "Extra" is a blend of Brillet Cognac and Poires Williams produced from pears grown in Alsace. It takes a mere 22 pounds of pears to produce each 750ml bottle. The purity of the fruit is stunning in this nicely balanced after-dinner libation. Serve it in a liqueur glass or in a tumbler on the rocks.

SERVING SUGGESTION:

Author Sid Goldstein (Wine Lover`s Cookbook, Chronicle Books) suggests a warm apple, cranberry and walnut pie with stilton cheese to finish any holiday feast. He recommends Sauternes or an aged tawny port as an accompaniment.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine(at)aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley