Sonoma`s barrel auction showing signs of life

SANTA ROSA, Calif. - From the rocky shoreline of the Pacific Ocean to the harrowing switchbacks of the Mayacamas, the range of mountains that divides Sonoma and Napa, vineyards are a way of life in Sonoma County. Long before anyone grew anything but prunes and plums in the Napa Valley, Sonoma County was renowned for its wines. Even today, a reasonable person could argue that Sonoma County produces this nation`s finest chardonnay (Kistler), merlot (Matanzas Creek), pinot noir (Williams Selyem) and sauvignon blanc (Rochioli). Yet it sometimes isn`t the quality of the wine that defines the wine region.

The greatest difference between Napa and Sonoma today is their wine auctions. Napa`s auction is the envy of the world, luring jet-setting big bidders and raising millions of dollars for charity every year. Sonoma`s auction barely had a pulse when it was mothballed a few years ago. No one has been able to adequately explain why Napa gets all the glory. But Sonoma hasn`t quit the auction game entirely. What remains of the Sonoma wine auction is an annual barrel auction during Sonoma Showcase, a three-day wine-and-food event in July. And this year, for the first time in recent memory, there were signs of life.

For one thing, the Sonoma barrel auction attracted a number of the county`s superstar boutique wineries by dropping a requirement that participating vintners donate an entire barrel (20 cases when bottled) of wine. Of equal importance, there were big bidders in attendance. A one-quarter barrel of Peter Michael 1999 Belle Cote Chardonnay fetched $35,000, or a little more than $500 a bottle. That was the top bid from the 35 auction lots. And a one-quarter barrel of the 1999 Siduri Hirsch Pinot Noir went under the gavel at $30,000 ($500 a bottle).

Perhaps the most stunning bid, but certainly not the highest, was the $24,000 price ($200 per bottle) paid for a half-barrel of the 1997 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages. The 1996 Cinq Cepages, a Bordeaux-style red meritage blend, sold for $35 retail in 1999 before its selection as Wine of the Year by Wine Spectator, a leading wine publication. No one has to pay auction prices, however, to enjoy the quality and diversity of Sonoma County wines. In fact, Sonoma County wines are often the best-value wines produced in California, if not the entire United States.

There is no better example than the Chateau Souverain 1998 Zinfandel ($13). As the price of comparable zinfandel soars into cabernet range, it`s the rare zin that combines similar flavor (pure raspberry jam) and price. Two old-vine Dry Creek Valley zinfandel vineyards are the grape source for this outstanding wine.

Preston of Dry Creek also tips the scale toward value with two recent releases, a 1999 Vin Gris ($9) and 1999 Viognier ($15). Preston`s Vin Gris is a spicy, dry rose blend of three grapes commonly associated with France`s Rhone Valley: cinsault, mourvedre and grenache. It`s the perfect summer wine, best served well-chilled as an aperitif or with picnic dishes, fish or shellfish. The Preston Viognier is more restrained than most California viognier, with less overripe fruit and a flinty mineral character that is unusual. It is stylish and complex, versatile as a food partner, and can stand up to spicy sauces.

Neighboring Dry Creek Vineyard`s 1998 Reserve Fume Blanc ($18) is an example of a new twist on an old theme. Dry Creek Vineyard was a sauvignon blanc pioneer and won many fans with its flinty, herbaceous rendition, which is still available and enjoys a cult following. The reserve fume possesses many of the same qualities, albeit muted.

A large percentage of the reserve is fermented in barrel, and half undergoes malolactic fermentation. It has a creamy texture and spicy aroma that is absent in the regular bottling of fume, and it has a more complex and sophisticated palate of flavors. It`s not your crisp, palate-cleansing sauvignon blanc, but for those who enjoy rich, creamy wines, this one is exceptional.

For those who prefer the herbal side of sauvignon blanc, the 1998 Adler Fels Sauvignon Blanc ($11) from the cooler Russian River Valley is a more appropriate selection. Crisp and refreshing, this wine shows hints of lemon grass, herbs, minerals and fresh grapefruit. Perfect with freshly shucked oysters. Adler Fels 1999 Gewurztraminer ($12) from Russian River grape sources is one of California`s most exceptional examples of this grape variety in an off-dry style. A beautifully perfumed wine - rose petal and tropical fruits - that is best served with spicy Asian cuisine and salty Mediterranean nibbles.

A little closer to the Pacific, in the chilly Green Valley to the west, Iron Horse Vineyards consistently produces among the finest sparkling wines made in California. The 1997 Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee ($28) is the winery`s most recent release. It has power, complexity and elegance at a fair price considering the overall quality. The same terms could be used to describe the 1997 Arrowood Merlot ($42), a wine that achieves exceptional balance despite its youth. Arrowood uses six vineyards from four different appellations to produce this wine, which combines the ripe berry fruit and immediate drinkability of a California wine with the earthy aromas of a typical Bordeaux. A healthy dash of cabernet franc in the blend adds spice and contributes substantially to the complex palate of flavors.

Just up the road from Arrowood in the Sonoma Valley, Kunde`s 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) is one of Sonoma`s most delicious cabs at the price. It compares favorably to Napa Valley cabs at $30 and up. Kunde also bottles three vineyard-designated chardonnays - Kinneybrook, Wildwood and C.S. Ridge - from the 1998 vintage that are a study in subtle contrasts. All three vineyards are planted at different elevations in the Mayacamas. Taste them side by side to see the difference a few hundred feet can make. All are $20.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley