A matter of taste

Jess Jackson was out to prove a point. On one recent afternoon at a toney hotel in Southern California, the proprietor of Kendall-Jackson winery made the case for the Bordeaux-style red wines of Artisans & Estates, his pet project. A&E is a collection of boutique wine estates owned by Jackson. He invited a number of wine professionals - mostly restaurateurs and sommeliers - to participate in a comparative tasting to be presided over by Ronn Wiegand, publisher of Restaurant Wine and the first person in the world to hold both Master of Wine (MW) and Master Sommelier (MS) titles.

The tasting, dubbed "Trios," was repeated in other venues around the United States. The wines to be evaluated were divided into six flights of three. All of the wines were tasted blind. Each flight included a renowned Bordeaux, a world-class California cult wine made in the Bordeaux style, and a Bordeaux-style red from A&E. The six A&E wines: 1996 Cardinale, 1996 Legacy, 1995 Lakoya "Mt. Veeder," 1996 Stonestreet "Christopher`s Vineyard," and the yet-to-be-released 1997 Atalon and 1998 Verite.

Tasters were asked to rank each wine in order of preference within its flight. Results of the group voting along with the actual retail prices paid for the wines evaluated:

Flight 1 - 1996 Opus One ($125), 1996 Cardinale ($100), 1996 Chateau Lafite Rothschild ($149).

Flight 2 - 1996 Stag`s Leap "Fay Vineyard" ($100), 1996 Legacy ($108), 1996 Chateau Haut-Brion ($150).

Flight 3 - 1997 Diamond Creek "Red Rock Terrace" ($150), 1995 Lakoya "Mt. Veeder" ($100), 1996 Chateau Latour ($195).

Flight 4 - 1996 Stonestreet "Christopher`s Vineyard" ($80), 1995 Caymus "Special Selection" ($125), 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild ($200).

Flight 5 - 1997 Atalon (TBA), 1996 Robert Mondavi Reserve ($100), 1996 Chateau Margaux ($340).

Flight 6 - 1998 Verite Merlot (TBA), 1995 Chateau Petrus ($840), 1997 Pahlmeyer Merlot ($80).

My vote card:

Flight 1 - 1996 Chateau Lafite, 1996 Opus One, 1996 Cardinale.

Flight 2 - 1996 Legacy, 1996 Stag`s Leap "Fay Vineyard," 1996 Chateau Haut-Brion.

Flight 3 - 1997 Diamond Creek "Red Rock Terrace," 1996 Chateau Latour, 1995 Lakoya "Mt. Veeder."

Flight 4 - 1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, 1996 Stonestreet "Christopher`s Vineyard," 1995 Caymus "Special Selection."

Flight 5 - 1997 Atalon, 1996 Chateau Margaux, 1996 Mondavi Reserve.

Flight 6 - 1998 Verite Merlot, 1995 Chateau Petrus, 1997 Pahlmeyer Merlot.

It`s worth noting that none of the great Bordeaux finished first in the group voting. In fact, all but the 1995 Chateau Petrus, the most expensive wine in the tasting at $840, finished last in its flight in the group tally. Given the setting, it was no surprise the California-based wine professionals consistently chose the more fruit-forward California wines. It`s also worth noting that three A&E wines - Stonestreet "Christopher`s," Atalon and Verite - were the choice in their flights.

What all of this proves is that California wines, even A&E wines, can stand up to the finest Bordeaux money can buy. All of the wines tasted had merit, and none were out of place in the tasting. Of course, a cynic might suggest that Chateau Petrus, at more than $800 a bottle, is a bit overrated and wildly overpriced. That wasn`t the point Jackson was trying to make, but it works for me.WINE FINDS

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value.

Exceptional:

Although the Fonseca 1998 Vintage Port ($45) earns an exceptional rating, it shouldn`t be confused with the remarkable 1994, which ranks as one of the greatest ports ever made. This was a difficult vintage and the only thing remarkable is that Fonseca did so well. It does have excellent complexity and flavor, lacking only the power and structure to be considered a "classic" vintage.

The 1998 Fonseca is the earlier-maturing port aficionados will drink while they are waiting for the incredible 1994 to come around. And for those who aren`t collectors, but like an exceptional glass of vintage port, this is the ticket. Look for it at retail shops beginning in October.

Very Good:

With a worldwide emphasis on terroir, it`s no surprise that even the wine folks in South America are beginning to get the hang of it. Concha y Toro, long Chile`s most well known and successful winery, will release a new line of terroir-based wines in September.

The Concha y Toro 1999 "Terrunyo" Sauvignon Blanc ($20) is sourced from a specific block of the El Triangulo vineyard in the Casablanca Valley, Chile`s best spot for the production of white wines. The Terrunyo (Spanish for terroir) is in the herbal, mineral, citrus style now associated with New Zealand sauvignon blancs, but not nearly as over-the-top as some of the Kiwi wines. If no one told you the price, you would easily peg the San Telmo 1999 Malbec, Argentina ($9.99), at $20 or more. This is one of the new breed of red wines emerging from Argentina, where the frenzy of vineyard planting over the past five years is beginning to pay dividends.

Malbec is one of the five red Bordeaux grape varieties and it makes Argentina`s most interesting wine. This is a bold, full-bodied red wine that has both power and elegance, with exceptional complexity and balance. Absolutely one of the finest $10 wines in the world. Another gem from Argentina is the 1998 Balbi Malbec-Syrah ($8). This is a juicier wine than the San Telmo, with more soft, ripe upfront fruit, a spicy nose and immediate drinkability. These wines could have fit nicely into the Good Value category, but they are much better than that.

Good Value:

Sauvignon blanc is perhaps Chile`s best white grape variety, and it shows as much in the 1999 Errazuriz Sauvignon Blanc ($9.99) from the Casablanca Valley north of Santiago. The Errazuriz is beautifully balanced (good acidity) and made in the rounder melon-citrus-mineral style that is more typical of California. Those who prefer a grassier style won`t find this wine as satisfying. Excellent with pastas and fish. The 1999 St. Clement Sauvignon Blanc ($13) is yet another style of sauvignon blanc, with an element of wood and spice from oak aging that consumers either love or hate. The fruit flavors are persistent, however, and stand above the oak nuance.

Spirit of the Week:

Anyone looking to spring a surprise after-dinner spirit on unsuspecting guests would do well to try A. de Fussigny "Ebony Blend" cognac ($50). This is not your everyday cognac, for it is black, as the name suggests. Alain Royer is the innovative genius behind this highly respected boutique cognac house and the Ebony Blend is perhaps his most exotic creating. The color is achieved through aging in heavily toasted Limousin oak barrels. Smooth and complex, this is an one cognac that stands out with chocolate. Or in place of chocolate for those calorie-conscious gourmets.

Serving suggestion:

Royer is adamant that cognac should not be served in a snifter. Swirling a fine spirit in a brandy snifter brings up the alcohol in the nose and masks the subtle complexities of the brandy. The stemware of choice would be a fluted port glass, or any fluted glass used to serve white wines.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine@aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley