Rules of wine: Please yourself

Start with the premise that the world`s wines have never been better. Every aspect of wine production has improved over the past 50 years. The farming is better, making it possible to grow fine wine grapes in areas previously thought hopeless. The winemaking is significantly better, allowing quality minded producers to better cope with the perils of nature. The "bad" vintage is almost extinct in some parts of the world.

But in this golden age of wine - a time when a cabernet from Mexico`s Guadalupe Valley could be easily confused with a Bordeaux from Pauillac - some things remain the same. The rules of wine appreciation are few, but constant. The first hard and fast rule is that there are no hard and fast rules. Drink what you like. To those who enjoy matching food with just the right wine, that may seem a bit extreme. But a wine`s first order of business should be pleasing the consumer. There`s no merit to the argument that merlot is the perfect wine with lamb if a person doesn`t like merlot. If Champagne is your thing, drink Champagne.

The French like to say Americans drink their white wines too cold and their red wines too warm. Next time a waiter serves you a lukewarm red wine, assume it has been stored in a hot kitchen. Ask for an ice bucket. No kidding. Ten minutes on ice will bring the temperature down several degrees. The wine will taste better. Don`t be a price snob. The most expensive wine isn`t necessarily the best wine. Keep an open mind. If you allow yourself to be pleasantly surprised, you will be.WINE FINDS:

The most outstanding wines are rated Exceptional. Wines that earn high marks for complexity, balance and flavor are rated Very Good. Wines that represent excellent quality for the price are rated Good Value.

Exceptional:

Far Niente 1999 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($52), goes against the grain of conventional wisdom. It`s a Napa Valley chardonnay that will improve with age. Far Niente eschews the winemaking technique of malolactic fermentation, which typically imparts the creamy, buttery nuance that is in vogue. Far Niente chard is lean in its youth, but adds depth and complexity as it ages, developing caramel and butterscotch flavors. The 1999 vintage is beautifully structured and complex.

Deutz 1995 Brut, Champagne, France ($52), scores another bull`s-eye for the 1995 vintage in Champagne. The Deutz is exceptionally complex for a vintage Champagne, and is particularly well-developed in the nose. The fruit is vibrant and ripe, with excellent definition and persistence on the palate - and a long finish.

Very Good:

Brancott 1998 Patutahi Estate "P" Gewurztraminer, Gisborne, New Zealand ($25), is the rare "New World" gewurztraminer with character. Grown in the cooler Gisborne region of New Zealand, both structure and flavor development are excellent in this outstanding vintage. The nose has an intense rose petal aromatic that is typical of this grape variety grown in the right conditions.

Roederer Estate Brut Rose, Anderson Valley ($24), has a bit more oomph than the average domestic sparkling rose, the result of winemaking sleight of hand. A small percentage of red wine is added to the blend prior to secondary fermentation, giving the wine a brighter hue and more body.

Markham 1998 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($18), is yet another solid effort from this underrated Napa winery. Beautifully balanced, medium-bodied and persistent baked apple and pear aromas. Just the right amount of oak, too - enough to add complexity without overwhelming the fruit.

Flora Springs 1999 Soliloquy, Napa Valley ($20), has been among the Napa Valley`s premier sauvignon blanc-based wines over the past decade, but time has taken its toll on the winery`s old sauvignon blanc vines. This vintage is the first to include a portion of wine made from new plantings of a clone called sauvignon musque. The honey and melon characteristics of this clone are subtle, but unmistakable, and the result is an improvement in the already outstanding Soliloquy.

Edmeades 1998 Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley ($16), is exceptional for the price. It`s a rustic wine, lacking in finesse, but flavorful and earthy. Winemaker Van Williamson used natural yeast fermentation, which many aficionados believe produces a more complex wine.

Callaway Coastal 1999 Reserve Viognier, California ($16), captures the essence of this delicate white grape from France`s Rhone Valley. This wine is beautifully perfumed, and loaded with fruit: aromas of apricot, peach and citrus. And the balance is exquisite.

Good Value:

Taltarni 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, Victoria, Australia ($13), deserves a heaping mound of freshly shucked oysters and steamed mussels on the side. In other words, it`s a beautiful match with shellfish. Balanced and flavorful, with aromas of tropical fruit and citrus, it`s a crisp, refreshing 100 percent sauvignon blanc with above-average character.

Rothbury Estate 1998 Shiraz, Australia ($7.99), is evidence there is decent red wine priced below $10, although the proof is more difficult to come by with each passing vintage. This one is a juicy, raspberry jam, red currant fruit bomb that works well with spicy cuisine.SPIRIT OF THE WEEK:

Bowmore "Darkest" Sherry Casked Islay Single Malt Scotch ($80) strikes a perfect balance between fruit and earth. This smooth 16-year-old single malt has been aged 14 years in bourbon casks followed by an additional two years in sherry casks. Aromas of apple and orange peel play off the smoke and sea-salt nuances typical of an island malt. Rich and full-bodied on the palate, with a long, sweet finish.SERVING SUGGESTION:

Serve the finest Scotch whisky neat - no ice - in a whisky tumbler. Ice kills the flavor, but a splash of water releases aroma and enhances the pleasure of a high quality Scotch.

Visit Robert Whitley online at www.whitleyonwine.com or send e-mail to him at whitonwine(at)aol.com.

(c) Copley News Service

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Author: Robert Whitley